glazier
Kentucky
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My installation
* This post was
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edited 01/26/09 08:10pm by glazier *
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2010 Jayco Eagle Super Lite 31.5 FBHS
08 Chevy 2500HD LTZ Duramax CC/SB/4X4
Reese Signature Series Hitch
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RVCampers
Midwest
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Joined: 05/11/2008
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Nice work. A couple of questions:
- Did you go over the existing materials withteh diamond plate?
- Where did you get the materials from?
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JBarca
Dublin, Ohio, USA
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Joined: 12/16/2004
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Glazer
Something not working with your pics. Did you move them on photobucket and break the link?
We really want to see them
John
John & Cindy
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
CC, SB, Lariat & FX4 package
21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR
Ford Tow Command
1,700# Reese HP hitch & HP Dual Cam
2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver
2004 Sunline Solaris T310SR
(I wish we where camping!)
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glazier
Kentucky
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RVCampers wrote:Nice work. A couple of questions:
- Did you go over the existing materials withteh diamond plate?
- Where did you get the materials from?
Yes I covered the fiberglass with the diamond plate. I used High Bond Foam Tape to stick the metal to the surface. I also used Dow Corning CWS Silicone behind the metal to help the tape with adhesion. I used Dow Corning 1199 around the perimeter, and will insert the gasket that I show into the 'J' Channel. The metal is .040, and I sheared it at 19-1/2" with the 1-1/2" bend under it. The metal is secured at the bottom with 1" long washer head screws same as a metal roof would be put on with. I own a Contract Glass Company, and we are stocking suppliers of these materials. I have an aluminum fabrication shop with plate shears and brakes. You should be able to buy these materials in your area for around $50 on the metal 4' x 8' .040 Diamond Aluminum. The sealant will depend on area we sell Dow Corning, GE, and Tremco, they should retail at around $5 per cartridge Silicone or Polyurethane. The tape can be bought retail at most automotive supply stores, I have no idea what it would cost, we use this stuff in bulk. 'J' Channel you should be able to get from a local Glass Company for around $25 for a 12' stock length.
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glazier
Kentucky
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JBarca wrote:Glazer
Something not working with your pics. Did you move them on photobucket and break the link?
We really want to see them
John
Sorry I had my settings off at first.
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JBarca
Dublin, Ohio, USA
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glazier wrote:JBarca wrote:Glazer
Something not working with your pics. Did you move them on photobucket and break the link?
We really want to see them
John
Sorry I had my settings off at first.
Sorry, I must be doing something wrong. I still do not see any pics, even the older links that did not post are now gone from my screen.
It sounds like you have a neat installtion by the comments from others. Wish I could see them.
Gald yours worked out.
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glazier
Kentucky
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JBarca wrote:glazier wrote:JBarca wrote:Glazer
Something not working with your pics. Did you move them on photobucket and break the link?
We really want to see them
John
Sorry I had my settings off at first.
Sorry, I must be doing something wrong. I still do not see any pics, even the older links that did not post are now gone from my screen.
It sounds like you have a neat installtion by the comments from others. Wish I could see them.
Gald yours worked out.
They should work now
* This post was
edited 01/26/09 08:11pm by glazier *
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JBarca
Dublin, Ohio, USA
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glazier wrote:
They should work now
Glazier
WOW Very nice. Thanks. First rate job. I also like the hitch head holder. Do the WD bars slide in under the hitch head? It looks like a compartment under the shank about the size of WD bars.
Thanks for sharing
John
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glazier
Kentucky
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Thanks John.
Yes the bars slide in under the hitch along with the pipe for setting the chains. Their is a small cut-out I can put a lock on to secure the spring bars in the area they lay in. I just use a standard hitch lock on the head if I leave the trailer at a campground for a few nights. I made the underside of the spring bar storage out of 1/8" lexan. I bent the lexan in a channel to prevent scratching up the trailer tounge when sliding the bars in and out.
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