cougar88nw
Prescott Valley, AZ
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I used to live in SC and my TT isn't set up for freezing temps either. I always drained the water heater (probably didn't need to) and I would blow out the water pipes with compressed air. You need to be sure the pipe going to the toilet has been purged...because the valve will freeze and crack  . Once you get your lines purged install a work light with a 100-watt incandescent bulb and have it on a timer....I have mine on from 7:00 PM to 9:00 AM. I did this in SC and have continued to do it this way in Northern AZ (and it gets colder here ) and have never had a frozen pipe. It's amazing how much heat a 100-watt bulb produces and it's safer than leaving the propane/heater running & cheaper!
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itsabouttime
Midland, TX
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I added heat tracing to water lines on a small trailer we used to have. A trouble light with only a 25 watt bulb was plenty for the remaining cold area. Be careful using a lamp for heat. A hundred watt bulb can get real hot in a confined space. Check it after using it a few hours to make sure it's safe.
Russ
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paulb4333
Columbia, SC
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I live in SC also, and am wondering about the same thing. Another twist on the same question....
We have an "autoset" that will turn on electric heatpump, and fire up the Genset.
Wondering if the same answers apply to a heat pump set at say 45 degrees (lowest setting).
The light bulb and heater ideas are great if you have access to electricity, but some don't. (Don't know about the OP)
Thanks!
Paul
2006 Fleetwood Excursion
39L
350 HP CAT
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LarryJM
NoVa
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Robert6401 wrote:I live in South Carolina, where it doesn't get COLD until usually January and February. My question is, for the months of November and December, when maybe one night a week the temps will drop below freezing for a few hours at most, can I just turn on the RV furnace to protect the pipes from freezing on the nights that it does? I'm fairly certain that my rig doesn't qualify as a 4-season unit, and I don't think there is any insulation to speak of around the pipes and tanks. The only water in any of the tanks would be residual water left over after draining. My concerns are mainly about the pipes, pump, water heater.
I would rather just turn the heat on and use that small amount of power and propane then have to go through the hassle of winterizing when I intend to keep using the rig throughout the winter.
Thanks,
Bob
If you have an enclosed underbelly then I think you will be fine. If not and have actual lines and FW tank exposed I would at least drain that. If all the other lines except the one from the FW tank if under the trailer are inside the trailer again I think yo are fine with temps a few degrees (like 5) for a max of three or four hours. These are of course just guesses on my part since I don't know exactly how your TT is plumbed, etc.
Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
ALL TRAILER MODS>>ETERNABOND INSTALL>>RAINKAP INSTALL
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Buck62
Charleston, South Carolina
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Joined: 04/28/2005
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I live in SC also and to winterize I blow out the water lines, empty all the water tanks and hot water tank then add RV antifreeze to the drain traps and flush the toilets to remove water in the lines and add antifreeze to each toilet bowl. I have been doing this for over 6 years and no problems. My dealer said I should be able to just to empty all the tanks and drain the low water drains to not have any problem but, I do the extra steps just to be sure. We also use our motorhome all year long so it easy to do this on a regular basis. Our freeze period is during the months of January and February where we can get down to the mid 20's for a few hours during the night but, the temperature does go up each day to the mid 50's. Most nights we get down to the low 30's. So you only have a few hours really of possible freezing but, why take the chance. Last year we were going away for Thanksgiving and we got an early drop in temperature the week before Thanksgiving. I did not want winterize so I did run the furnace during the night for the few cold nights we had that week. One of the things we really like living in SC is that we can use our motorhome all year long.
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Robert6401
Gilbert, SC
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Thanks for all the input everyone. To help clarify, the underbelly of my 5th wheel is enclosed, the only pipes that are fully exposed are the black and grey tank drain pipes. I am leaning towards getting the air compressor fitting that will blow out the lines and dropping a little antifreeze in the traps. One question I have is regarding the antifreeze in the toilets: Do you put the antifreeze in the bowl, or flush it? I didnt think the toilets had p-traps, but I could easily be wrong. I also am going to have to figure out what exactly I need to do to the hot water heater because that whole thing is foreign to me. Thanks for all the help.
2003 Ford 7.3 Superduty
2009 Forest River Sierra 335QBQ
Me, DW, DS(6), DD(4)
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2oldman
Indio CA
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Joined: 04/15/2001
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winterizing in section 23 of FAQ
Winterize Sept 2009
Winterize with air pressure
Black tank flush winterize
Leave tanks empty?
Water in black after empty?
Winterize batteries Oct2009
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roverdover
Russellville, Alabama
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Joined: 08/26/2009
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I live in Northwest Alabama and we do get some cold weather. Twice I have not winterized the plumbing for the winter if we were going to be using the camper. Just set the thermostat to about 50 degrees. You will use propane, but not as much as you might think, especially since most days the temperature will probably reach into the 50's. If you do not have your 5th wheel at home to where you can keep an eye on it, then by all means go ahead and winterize. As others have stated, it doesn't take long to unwinterize the unit if you need to use it.
Larry
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Robert6401
Gilbert, SC
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Rig is parked at home, already have a drop cord running to it. Just running the furnace on the cold nights sounds like a pretty simple way to accomplish my goal.
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Deen
Vancouver, WA
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Joined: 12/07/2000
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npenn wrote:Art D wrote:Here in South Louisiana, I use a small electric heater and open all cabinet doors and raise up the bed. Don't drain water heater. That works for a several hour dip below 32F. If lower, then I drain everyting and blow it out.
Ditto you can get a small tire compressor (tank) very reasonable at Harbor Freight and water air adapter to blow them out easily and quickly. Put a small amount antifreeze down each drain. Takes me maybe half hour to do all the above. Good to go for some very low temperatures.
Happy Trails And MH magazine says they don't recommend that as it still leaves enough water in the lines to cause lines to break. They only recommend using the anti-freeze after blowing the lines out. I've never blown the lines out in almost 53 years of RV'ing, but I have used the anti-freeze. Have yet to have a broken pipe.
Every year they are post on the forum about people who just blew the lines out, it didn't work so they ended up with broken pipes.
Deen - Vancouver, WA
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