Turd Herder
A strange place
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Joined: 02/17/2008
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Don't feel bad. My Eagle pulled out of the superglide because the trailer was a bit too high resulting in a false connection. Good thing I was going 3mph when it came off instead of on the high way. Pretzeled my tailgate and a slight wow in the driver side bed rail.
We were very fortunate.
2006 GMC LBZ Crewcab
2008 Jayco Eagle 345BHS
14k Superglide w/Superrails
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sbellner
Kingsport, TN
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Joined: 07/12/2003
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BB_TX wrote:I have heard (but don't know if it is true) that if you even ask your agent about a possible claim, they make a note of it in your file. Although it would probably not affect your rates unless you actually filed a claim. May only relate to home insurance.
That observation is spot-on. I had water infiltration into my Hybrid, and I called the insurance co. to inquire about a claim. They sent out an adjuster, and after a lot of heated back-and-forth discussion between myself, the dealer, and the insurance co., the insurance co. determined I did not have the basis for a claim. But it showed up on my C.L.U.E report within a month as a claim submitted with no payout.
We sold that unit and upgraded to a fiver, so I don't know if my rate increased because of this or not, as the policies would be like comparing apples to oranges. But I know the request will be on my record for the next seven years. Might make it tough to change insurance companies in the future.
Steve in East Tennessee
2008 Jayco Eagle 299 RLS
2008 Silverado 2500 4x4 Crew Cab SB
Duramax LMM Diesel/Allison Transmission
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Eugarps
Hagerstown, MD
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Joined: 09/26/2002
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afdds wrote:Ok, just checked on carparts.com and there is a list of hitches so you can order the right Bedsaver. My Curt E5 16K is not listed! I also checked on Blue Ox and I don't see my model number. Is it possible that I can't use the Blue Ox Bedsaver?
If anyone has time, can they please check online at carparts.com and make a suggestion on which one to order. I could also wait until Monday and call Blue Ox.
Bed Saver works with the Curt 20K. I was just shopping for a FWH and found that combination. None seems to be listed for the 16K. 
Bill
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sbellner
Kingsport, TN
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Just curious, but why is this such a common occurrence? I have Curt 20K hitch, and I can't even secure the lock pin unless the jaws are secure. And there is also a green pin that can only be seen if the pin pushes the jaws, which confirms the hitch is secure.
I always hitch and lock, raise the landing gear an inch or so off the ground, and do a pull test. Even if the hitch were to fail, the rig would only fall back on the landing gear, and not onto the truck rails.
Do other hitches not have this level of redundancy? Or do most people raise their landing gear all the way up before performing a pull test? Or do people just not do a pull test at all? I hope the latter is not too common.
I hit the mailbox the first time I tried backing into the driveway when the rig was only about three hours old, so I can understand the emotions of messing up a brand new rig, but I can't get a handle on why so many people drop the whole thing on their truck.
I learned my lesson early - never let your 19-year old daughter be your spotter. She got frustrated with the amount of time it was taking me to line up with the driveway, and went into the house because it was "too hot outside." The mailbox was in my blindspot, and I thought she was going to holler at me when I got close. I got close, but never got the holler I needed to avoid bumping it  .
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afdds
California
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Joined: 01/10/2003
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sbellner- I'm not sure if the Curt 16K has a green pin? Anyone know? After all this...I'm going to be so upset if the Curt 16K won't work with the Bedsaver. I asked the RV dealer to install a Reese....when we got there a Curt was installed. They said "Same thing, little better", so I let it slide. I guess I should told them to yank it out.
I'll be glad when all the kinks get worked out and all this mess is over and we can just enjoy our toy.
Debra
F350 Lariat,Crew Cab long bed 4x4 Diesel
Heartland Big Country 3500RL
"Our home is where the Air Force sends us!"
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afdds
California
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Joined: 01/10/2003
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Will call Blue Ox on Monday....just looking for other ideas in case they tell me it won't work with the 16K
Does anyone know if this will help protect the bed and rails if it drops again? I don't except to have NO damage, maybe just not as much.
beefy 2 1/2'' stainless steel tubes and heavy-duty, die-cast construction
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JRMora
Now Located in Columbus, GA
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Joined: 08/27/2006
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afdds,
Those side rails are going to cause more problems than they fix. All they are going to do is reduce the amount of clearance between the top of the rails and the bottom of the fifth wheel. When hitched up, you should have 6" of more space between the top of the rails and the bottom of your trailer.
Sitting on level ground you may not think you need all that clearance, but if you end up backing into a non level campsite (or even pulling out of a gas station) your truck and trailer will twist relative to each other. Too little clearance and your truck and trailer will contact each other. Those beefy rails would put a nice hole in the bottom of your fifth wheel.
The second time we took our fifth wheel out we caught a tree branch on the corner of the roof and did $10k damage to it. Insurance covered this with no rate change to us. Since then we have put over 20k miles on the trailer through most of the bottom of the US. Hitch, unhitch, hitch, unhitch...and pretty soon you develop a routine.
I never let anyone in the space between the truck and trailer unless the truck is off and the trailer is chocked. I always do a pull test. I always do a visual inpection of the pin. I do the complete hitch up and inspection then my wife and oldest son both do a complete walkaround behind me (3 sets of eyes). I always check the hitch after every stop (in case some juvenile decides to pull the locking pin on my hitch).
Hitch failures are rare. Usually, it's because something was missed or not done properly that cause the truck and trailer to separate. Make a written checklist (pilots do this) and use it everytime you hitch or unhitch. You can search here for exmaples. Just search on "check list".
Now, all that said, relax. If you feel really stressed about this (I sense you are), walk away and come back a little later. RV'ing should be a relaxing hobby.
Happy trails.
Juan
2004 Dodge Ram 3500 CTD/4X4/DRW/6 Speed
2005 Cedar Creek 36RLTS
Truck: B&W, Prodigy, Quadzilla, MBRP, Pac Brake PRXB, Ride Rites
Trailer: Full Trail Air, Onan Marquis Gold 6500LP, Dual AC, King Bed
My RV Photos
Us: Juan/Lyn/Nick/Quino/Rico (3 Boys!)
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robertbick
Upstate NY
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Joined: 07/05/2006
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afdds wrote:Will call Blue Ox on Monday....just looking for other ideas in case they tell me it won't work with the 16K
Does anyone know if this will help protect the bed and rails if it drops again? I don't except to have NO damage, maybe just not as much.
Instead of planning for it to happen again, why don't you just make a habit of hitching up correctly and double checking everything? I really do not see how this can happen. It really is a simple procedure. I know for a fact that it will never happen to me because I am one of those people with a touch of OCD.  OCD can be a good thing.
Bob
2008 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 4X4 LTZ
2010 Keystone Cougar 276RLS Pictures
PullRite Superglide 14K Hitch
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RVER
West of Boston, MA
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Joined: 10/29/2000
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DO NOT put rails on your truck, as said before it will reduce the space betw your truck and the RV when you go over bumps and turn on uneven ground etc.
This mishap has got you really worried so you need to realize that now that you did this it will not happen again, you know what to check now. AND if you are suppose to be locking the handle down and you are not then do it, seems that there is a mechanism that will not let it lock if it is not in right so that seems like a great advantage that most of us do not have.
So far as asking for Reese and getting Curt- IF YOU want REESE than go to the dealer and say you asked for REESE and you want REESE and yank the Curt out!!! that is why RV dealers have reputations of being slugs, you requested something and should then get what was requested or the dealer tell you up front he is not a Reese Dealer but not just subsitute and I believe it is a reason for suit if he is a jerk and will not do as you ask. IF you do not trust him then keep the Curt and seems others like it etc. use it but it is another lesson, never ever pay for something until you know it is what you asked for.
RVing is a great hobby so try to just hook up, test the hook up and then raise the legs, unchock and go. I have been known to almost try to drive off with the legs down or something anbd that is why a checklist is great and always use but I get cocky sometimes.
Chevy Silverado 2500HD with Duramax engine and Allison transmission
2002 Sunnybrook 34BWTS with lots of goodies
Pullrite Superglide Hitch, Prodigy brake controller
S and S Co-Travelers and along for the ride is Ketzel the wonder cat.
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up2nogood
Utah
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Joined: 02/20/2008
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robertbick wrote:afdds wrote:Will call Blue Ox on Monday....just looking for other ideas in case they tell me it won't work with the 16K
Does anyone know if this will help protect the bed and rails if it drops again? I don't except to have NO damage, maybe just not as much.
Instead of planning for it to happen again, why don't you just make a habit of hitching up correctly and double checking everything? I really do not see how this can happen. It really is a simple procedure. I know for a fact that it will never happen to me because I am one of those people with a touch of OCD. OCD can be a good thing.
I am with you, been waiting for someone to point this out,We are going to hear it from all sides, usually it is we are perfect or we are newbies whatever but it is unbelievable the amount of fifth wheels that are dropped, why ,because simpily in the op's case it appears they never got educated on proper hitching procedures, and are doing so after the fact. Again unbelievable that people will buy these 10-15k monsters, and not know how to hitch them properly, and are flying down our highways with a combined weights of up or over 20K.
Some seem to have made a mystery out of hitching, it could not be anymore simple, need the hitch pin plate even or just slightly lower than the top of the hitch, I like very little ,I don't want to force the truck down too much there is no reason for it, as long as the pin box is level with the hitch to prevent high hitching. High hitching is very easy to see simpily there is a gap between pin box and hitch, if you have a gap you are high hitched either pull back out, and lower the fifth wheel accordingly and back back in, I have heard some say make sure your jaws are open and just lower it down the rest of the way, they can I won't , I will back into the pin not lower it in. My hitch has to be open to back in, and closes when backed all the way in, I can see the handle shut, if it does not close all the way I cannot get the safety pin in, usually a tap with the palm of my hand, and its closes the rest of the way, and I insert the pin. I am hitched no doubt in my mind, but I still do the pull test with landing gear slightly up no more than an inch. My reasoning on the pull test is I trust me I don't trust the hitch. Raise your landing gear, remove your chocks, and do whatever else you do before pulling out. Check lists are nice
I personally think hitching is a one person job. DW takes care of the inside for towing and I take care of the outside. Some like to make it a two person job, if it works for you have at it. I shut the world off when hitching, you can talk to me all you want, but you will be ignored, sorry if that offends you, but we can talk all you want when I am finished.
Make no mistake I feel for the OP, it can be no fun, but I recommend getting educated on hitching and towing instead of where to buy a bedsaver, buy one if you must, but learn how to do it right, and that bedsaver will be useless piece of metal.
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