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Date Posted |
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RE: 3M 5200 - The Caulk From Hell!
Bob, that type of adhesive/chaulk is similar to Gorilla Glue, where you have to have a tad of moisture to get the urethane to start setting. On the coast where we are, its fairly humid during the summer and it sets up fast.
I would only use it when the two objects are intended to stay together for a long time.
It could be worse, you could have tried 3m 4200, which stays flexible.
Al
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Alschott
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11/22/09 08:30pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Sliding dinette table – lock replacement
Try McMaster-Carr on-line catalog - or try De-Sta-Co for a toggle clamp.
These run about 10.00 or so dollars a piece. Very good clamps - we use them for work holding fixtures.
Al
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Alschott
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11/15/09 08:34pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Building my own looks....
Matt, what can be done with the Glen-L designs is to employ more of the bed area of the truck, just like they do in Europe.
I have to admire you for this project. Keep going, and insulate like mad.
Al
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Alschott
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11/12/09 05:20pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Veteran's Day
Myself - US Army - Stateside 1970 to 1971 - draftee
National Guard 1971-1972
Brother - US Army - Vietnam 1967-1969 - draftee, SGT
Uncles - Army, Navy, Army, Navy - WW2
Proud to have served, extremely proud of my brother, Bob - endured much in Vietnam.
Al
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Alschott
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11/11/09 09:03pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Git Rot success
I'd hesitate on the glycol application - that would prevent git-rot from bonding, but the borax dries to a powder and doesn't upset the epoxy system. Use the glycol as a preventative, not together with the ethylene glycol.
We use glycerine in our gauges that we sell, its hard to wash out completely.
My experience with ethylene glycol is similar, it sticks to surfaces and requires a lot of water to remove it. And it is poisonous - causes living cells to swell and burst. But if the wood isn't damaged, it could reduce rot early on.
Al
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Alschott
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11/09/09 08:49pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Git Rot success
Thanks for the posting - I've used Borax as an insecticide before, nails roaches, fleas, ants. The use of Ethylene Glycol as a fungicide is new to me, my boat is in need of rot protection. If I could open up the siding on the camper, I'd spray it on the wood frame.
Better living thru modern chemistry!
Al
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Alschott
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11/09/09 08:30pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Deep Cycle battery question: amps up voltage down....
Pianotuna,
I'll use that explanation during one of my discussions with the folks at my church - all I have to do is start explaining and they'll fall asleep faster than when my pastor is preaching.
Good explanation on why the battery rebounds after removing the load. Chemicals don't move quite as fast as electrons in the real world.
Al
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Alschott
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10/31/09 04:50pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Winterized but not done!!
Just noticed that the number of posts went up as soon as fall hit! A lot of fall and winter camper types are coming out of the woods. I just emptied my water tank for the season, but the camper is ready to go otherwise. These little Sunlites don't need much in the winterizing department. Looking forward to January camping myself.
Al
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Alschott
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10/26/09 03:24pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Halloween Humor
We used to "onion" and then soap the windows of the meanies - we were told that the glass would break when they washed the windows. Probably helped to keep the soap from staying on the glass.
Al
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Alschott
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10/24/09 07:31pm |
Around the Campfire
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RE: Deep Cycle battery question: amps up voltage down....
Oops, my sliderule was off a tad, still the idea is there. I missed the decimal point in the A/C power draw. 957 watts would be the right number to plug in for the power requirement. The battery cables would have to be about 4-0000 or bigger.
Al
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Alschott
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10/24/09 07:18pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Weighing in across the US. Are TC's exempt?
My Dakota (registered in Connecticut) has passenger plates issued by our DMV. If I drove the truck on New York's Parkways, I'd get a ticket if I had Combo or Commercial plates. The requirement for passenger plates was whether I had a jump seat in back or a four door truck. But I can't carry the camper on the Tacontic Parkway or other parkways - its clearly stated and they really don't like vehicles modifying their bridges. On my daily commute to the border, I would see at least two tractor/trailer rigs getting a crew cut to the trailer. State Troopers love to stop them before they take out a bridge and make them back up to the last exit they passed - usually 3 or 4 miles - along with a fine for lacking the ability to read the warning signs.
F350's and 3500's with dually's are a bit wide for the lanes here. We are kinda land poor in these parts and taking land for road improvement involves years of litigation and money.
Al
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Alschott
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10/23/09 08:19pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Halloween Humor
That is a good idea for the "non-costume" teens we get! Lets see, packets of salad dressing, mustard (chineses is best), soy sauce, and for the little kids dressing up - real candy - rewards for dressing up, and anti-rewards for being greedy.
Al
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Alschott
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10/23/09 07:38pm |
Around the Campfire
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RE: Deep Cycle battery question: amps up voltage down....
What is probably happening is that your battery bank voltage is decreasing and the inverter is still trying to make the 117VAC its rated for. Use VA as the energy you require to run the AC, as its running it takes 117 times 7.5 amps or about 8700 watts running. Your inverter is calling on the battery to produce about 1.1 times 8700 watts regardless of that the voltage of the battery is.
9570 watts divided by the battery voltage equals the current draw of the inverter.
9570 watts/13.6 volts = 704 amps
9570 watts/13.2 volts = 725 amps (typical fresh battery)
9570 watts/12.7 volts = 754 amps (battery running a tad)
9570 watts/12.3 volts = 778 amps (battery raising its surrender flag)
9570 watts/12.0 volts = 798 amps (battery and inverter ready to call it quits)
so as the battery voltage goes down, the current draw goes up until the battery voltage gets too low for the inverter and then it just shuts off the power.
Al
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Alschott
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10/23/09 07:26pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Battery Experiment #1
I figured that some of us work "word" problems easier than problems with numbers. Either way of either multiplying or dividing gives the same answer.
BTW, when I am designing new products, almost all of the specifications of the material is in metric units. You should see the other engineers wrestle with metrics, its almost fun to watch.
Anyway, its good to know how long your battery can last during a cold winter's night without charging it up during the night.
My experience last January up in New Hampshire turned out to be quite pleasant with the heater running during the night - just wished the fan was a little quieter. It was about -5F (-21C) that night, clear skies, and clear air - great camping weather (if you are a penguin).
Al
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Alschott
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10/10/09 12:00pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Battery Experiment #1
Come guys, we learned how to convert Celsius to Farenheit back in grade school.
nine times the celsius and then divide by five and then add 32 to the results.
Al
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Alschott
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10/10/09 10:55am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Question for the 1/2 ton group
I have a 2002 Dodge Dakota with the 3.9 V6 and it takes the Sunlight 6.9 without a problem. I added supersprings to level it out, and so far its been fun during the spring, fall, and winter months. I don't have A/C so I don't use it much during the summer.
Now if you have the need to carry a party of six on board, the Dak wouldn't be a good idea.
Enjoy it, don't overload it, and you'll be fine.
Al
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Alschott
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10/06/09 06:27pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Camper Covers
I am disappointed with the cover I got for my camper, it wasn't close to fitting at all, and water and moisture just passed thru to lock it in place when I needed to remove it.
I'll go with the tarp this year, and place some 2x4 up on the roof for air circulation. The custom cover made of Sunbrella sounds to be the best - my run-about has that type of material and its on its 4th year without any damage from the weather. Water just ponds on it, and the inside stays dry.
Al
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Alschott
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10/02/09 08:22pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Getting a new (to me) TC home, help??
My "factory type" rear tie downs are not much more than a large metal button. The rear turnbuckle is not spring loaded so a simple hand tightening of the turnbuckle is more than enough to load the rear end from bouncing up. The front turnbuckle is spring loaded to allow some give. If you make a belly bar, it will have some give (unless you make it from solid bar) so a simple turnbuckle will work there. My "factory type" front tie downs are attached to the truck bed so they need the spring to keep my eyebolts from tearing loose.
You might be able to attach a tube to the hitch with u-bolts that are used with boat trailers - don't use muffler clamps - they'll break off.
Al
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Alschott
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09/16/09 07:19am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Getting a new (to me) TC home, help??
Go for the belly bar, use a 2 inch square tube and bolt it to the frame.
If you have a class 3 or 4 hitch you might be able to slip a square tube into each end. Secure it with some strong bolts, don't get cheap here. That should hold you until you can either fabricate a good hold down or buy one.
I went with tie downs meant for my truck - after seeing what the dealer was doing to my electrical, I'm glad I installed them myself.
Al
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Alschott
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09/15/09 08:01pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Getting a new (to me) TC home, help??
There are two posts in the Truck Campers University that show homemade tie-downs. One shows a tie down that fits in the rear hitch and the other shows a homemade "belly bar". Both are solid looking for a trip - The truck camper university spot is very good for reference.
Al
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Alschott
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09/14/09 08:22pm |
Truck Campers
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