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RE: Gulfstream

I have been looking online the last few days at reported problems with these units and other makes as well. Wondering out loud would it seem resonable to assume items such as poor fit and finish would be quite obvious on a 5 year old unit? Water leaks and floor or sidewall issues should also be detectable at this age if they exist?
I have not seen this unit yet but my friend has, he said it is very well cared for with good fit and finish inside and out. I hope to get a chance to see it first hand next week maybe and just want to arm myself with as much info as possible.
Chassis wise I am very farmiliar with these chassis in commercial bus applications and know what issues (most are minor) exist.
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Patster
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06/03/10 04:11pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Gulfstream

We have a 2004 model 6340 GS Endura. Very happy with it. There have been some problems with early Endura's. What year and model is your friend looking at?
It is listed as a 2005 on a 2004 chassis, 35 ft and looks darn near identical paint scheme as yours. Chassis wise it has had helper air springs put in the rear, new shocks and handles good.
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Patster
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06/03/10 06:33am |
Class C Motorhomes
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Gulfstream

A close friend of mine is looking at buying a Gulfstream Endura Super C on the Kodiak chassis. I can offer him lots of info chassis wise but know squat about the RV portion. problem areas? Things to look for, or keep on looking. Not wanting to start any brnd bashing, pm me if there is something you want to share but not post.
Thanks
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Patster
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06/02/10 02:14pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Roadtrek 190 Popular 4.8L vs 6.0L engine

GM offers a 4.8 because a lot of vans do not need the additional power of the 6.0. Both engines are from the same family as well as the 5.3 v8. The Duramax is actually quiet, but it is pricey and heavy which is why it is not likely offered. HP & torque figures for the 4.8 are impressive, 280 hp and 296 lbft torque 10 or 15 years ago were almost unheard of in a stock engine, never mind one in a van, or one that small. The 4.8 has a relatively flat torque curve and now with a 6 speed auto should be able to stay in its power band without having to scream. Personally before I would dismiss the 4.8 based on it displacement I would be inclined to try it in its application first. But then again its nice to have extra power. ;)
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Patster
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04/20/10 08:41am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.

WVvan, nice work. You sure have it insulated well. As for your problem of finding the hole you just drilled I have in the past used chalk on the fabric before drilling to aid in hole location. By the way i am amazed at how much snow you have down there! Until this week we have had hardly any snow this winter and next to nothing since the start of the new year.
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Patster
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02/26/10 08:35am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: sprinter problem, losing power, engine light on

Avoid using water emulsifiers,(gas line antifreeze) they will break the water down so it can get past the water separator but will damage the injection pump and or injectors! If it is water in the fuel the water separator should remove it and the "water in fuel" light on. The water can be drained off by loosening the drain valve on the top of the filter and turning the key on but not starting the engine to expel it.
The reduction of power and check engine light would indicate the engine is in "limp mode". There are different severities of limp mode, a popped resonator limits the engine to 2500 rpm max and reduces engine power a lot. Since you said it has been swapped with the aluminum type and said it is down on power a little we can rule that out. A failed, failing or oil fouled boost air temp sensor can cause a mild limp mode and mil light on, as can an intake air temp sensor. The boost air temp sensor s located on the air to air cooler tube going to the engine from the air to air cooler, driver's side on the plastic junction. It is a two wire sensor with two locking tabs. The intake air temp sensor is integrated into the mass airflow sensor, it is screwed to the air cleaner lid and is the neck the hose to the turbo attaches to.
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Patster
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01/19/10 07:47am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Road Safety

Thanks John, I owe you one.
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Patster
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12/19/09 09:35pm |
Around the Campfire
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RE: Road Safety

I tried to get it clickable, won't work, if you copy and paste the url it will work. When I try to enter it to make it clickable it says there is an error. I tried, sorry.....someone else can I'm sure.
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Patster
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12/19/09 09:25am |
Around the Campfire
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RE: Road Safety

Actually the ad covers more than just drinking or drugs, driving while tired, driving distracted and speeding to name a few. There may be people out there that will make light of it, joke about it, but I can assure you that in many cases that is how they deal with something. By making a joke of it eases the impact on them. But an impact is still made they just don't admit it. These ads have been useful in Australia, there the drinking age is lower, 18 I think, and the issue is presented not to try and demonize alcohol but show folks just ordinary people like you or me can do a lot of harm if we are not careful. After all that is how this all happens.
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Patster
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12/19/09 07:11am |
Around the Campfire
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Road Safety

This is a Road Safety commercial from Victoria Australia that was forwarded to me the other day. WARNING THIS GETS EXTREMELY GRAPHIC 1/3 OF THE WAY THROUGH. This is a compilation of 20 years worth of ads, but a well put together piece. If you know someone that maybe has occasional one too many, maybe its you....sit down and watch. To anyone who thinks it could never happen to them, remember there are plenty of innocent person involved as well. Stay safe and Merry Christmas and a Happy NewYear
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2mf8DtWWd8
link
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Patster
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12/18/09 09:09pm |
Around the Campfire
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RE: Road Salt Protection and Maintenance ?

They dont seem to have any dedicated rustproofing infrastructure in the states,most people have no idea what oil spraying is all about and think rustproofing is buying a rattle can of some chemical from Walmart and spraying it on certain parts of the car/truck,here in Montreal there are dozens of rustproofing establishments and most people i know get their cars and trucks sprayed once a year and you can certainly tell which cars have been treated and which ones havent once they start getting 5 to 6 years old.. I use the Krown treatment. every year,costs $125 and i've never seen rust on any of my cars.
Anyone who lives in the northern 1/3 of the USA should come north of the boarder and get their vehicle treated if they drive it in winter salt conditions. Jambo is right, you can tell who has had their vehicle treated and who has not after 5 or 6 years, sometimes sooner.
Some vehicles survive better in our winters than others, I have seen buses with structures made from mild steel then treated by the builder with the tar type undercoating thinking it will survive for decades. In as little as three years there is major rust and deterioration of structural components if the vehicle is not treated with a liquid type rust inhibitor. Rust and corrosion are the worst things I deal with in the trade, I truly envy mechanics in outside of the salt belt. A couple of years ago my parents bought a 94 Tempo in Arizona to use as a toad behind their Class A. When they came back in the spring that year I had never seen that rust free and nice of a 94 Tempo since about 95. So easy to work on, no seized bolts, no rust, looked like new underneath. And yes even though it does not see Canadian winters my dad still wanted it sprayed :)
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Patster
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11/18/09 08:58am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Road Salt Protection and Maintenance ?

I have only seen one type of solution that works. If you drive even occasionally in winter conditions and salt and/or other chemicals are used such as calcium chloride and magnesium chloride to keep the roads clear you need to protect your vehicle with a LIQUID rust inhibitor applied to the entire vehicle. If you drive it a lot then it is advisable to reapply mid season to the underside areas that see a lot of spray of water, slush and salt. The salt and other chemicals which are now far worse than salt because they are not as water soluble and stick to the vehicle even after washing penetrate the seams of the body, electrical connectors and just about everything and accelerate corrosion. A liquid inhibitor will also penetrate these areas and block out the moisture and chemicals. Avoid tar like substances, they dry out and crack and the salt penetrate these cracks and is held by the undercoating trapping it and rots things even worse that with nothing. In Canada we have a couple brands with similar products, Krown Rust Control and Rust Check are both similar. I use Krown personally and they also make a product to remove salt and calcium called M.R 35. It is a cleaner that makes the salt and other chemicals more water soluble and is rinsed off. I am a fleet mechanic in southern Ontario, our winter road maint is no good for our vehicles and is far more corrosive than driving you car in the ocean at the beach. Combine that with constant fluctuations of temp from below to above freezing and it is really hell on our cars. Some people are going to tell you todays vehicles do not need anything, B S! If there is nothing in your area like this, travel to Canada and have it done! Look on the internet for a location nearest you. PM me for further questions.
ps, although I do endorse certain products in my post I do not have any affiliation with them, my recommendation is based on personal use, I make no money from them :)
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Patster
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11/17/09 06:23am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: The new Dodge van?

Fiat is not an upstart company, if they don't have their act together now they never will. As for Dodge's next van, maybe they will listen to my comments (likely not). Bring back the last version of the B van updated of course and if a diesel engine is a key point then use the 4 cylinder Cummins ISF 3.8 engine.
Cummins
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Patster
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10/29/09 06:11am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Mercedes to sell Sprinter, not Dodge in 2010

The new Mercedes 3.0 v6 will be the "BlueTec" engine. Tighter emission standards are in place for 2010. In the Sprinter and SUV's from Mercedes the new engine will use the liquid urea injection to control NOx emissions. As for the rest of the engine it will likely be the same(ish). There will be changes to the intake and exhaust systems, but engine basics should be mostly the same. I knew this was coming down at some point, since the divorce that Daimler would claim sole custody of the Sprinter. Parts distribution for the Sprinter be it a Dodge or Freightliner comes from the same warehouse, not sure when this is due to change, could cause some problems. I will ask around and post if and when i get an answer.
Horsepower is supposed to be up to 210 and torque 398 lb-ft with the new version of the engine, and they say fuel economy improves slightly.
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Patster
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09/03/09 03:44am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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