| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: Road Salt Protection and Maintenance ?
They dont seem to have any dedicated rustproofing infrastructure in the states,most people have no idea what oil spraying is all about and think rustproofing is buying a rattle can of some chemical from Walmart and spraying it on certain parts of the car/truck,here in Montreal there are dozens of rustproofing establishments and most people i know get their cars and trucks sprayed once a year and you can certainly tell which cars have been treated and which ones havent once they start getting 5 to 6 years old.. I use the Krown treatment. every year,costs $125 and i've never seen rust on any of my cars.
Anyone who lives in the northern 1/3 of the USA should come north of the boarder and get their vehicle treated if they drive it in winter salt conditions. Jambo is right, you can tell who has had their vehicle treated and who has not after 5 or 6 years, sometimes sooner.
Some vehicles survive better in our winters than others, I have seen buses with structures made from mild steel then treated by the builder with the tar type undercoating thinking it will survive for decades. In as little as three years there is major rust and deterioration of structural components if the vehicle is not treated with a liquid type rust inhibitor. Rust and corrosion are the worst things I deal with in the trade, I truly envy mechanics in outside of the salt belt. A couple of years ago my parents bought a 94 Tempo in Arizona to use as a toad behind their Class A. When they came back in the spring that year I had never seen that rust free and nice of a 94 Tempo since about 95. So easy to work on, no seized bolts, no rust, looked like new underneath. And yes even though it does not see Canadian winters my dad still wanted it sprayed :)
|
Patster
|
11/18/09 08:58am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: Road Salt Protection and Maintenance ?
I have only seen one type of solution that works. If you drive even occasionally in winter conditions and salt and/or other chemicals are used such as calcium chloride and magnesium chloride to keep the roads clear you need to protect your vehicle with a LIQUID rust inhibitor applied to the entire vehicle. If you drive it a lot then it is advisable to reapply mid season to the underside areas that see a lot of spray of water, slush and salt. The salt and other chemicals which are now far worse than salt because they are not as water soluble and stick to the vehicle even after washing penetrate the seams of the body, electrical connectors and just about everything and accelerate corrosion. A liquid inhibitor will also penetrate these areas and block out the moisture and chemicals. Avoid tar like substances, they dry out and crack and the salt penetrate these cracks and is held by the undercoating trapping it and rots things even worse that with nothing. In Canada we have a couple brands with similar products, Krown Rust Control and Rust Check are both similar. I use Krown personally and they also make a product to remove salt and calcium called M.R 35. It is a cleaner that makes the salt and other chemicals more water soluble and is rinsed off. I am a fleet mechanic in southern Ontario, our winter road maint is no good for our vehicles and is far more corrosive than driving you car in the ocean at the beach. Combine that with constant fluctuations of temp from below to above freezing and it is really hell on our cars. Some people are going to tell you todays vehicles do not need anything, B S! If there is nothing in your area like this, travel to Canada and have it done! Look on the internet for a location nearest you. PM me for further questions.
ps, although I do endorse certain products in my post I do not have any affiliation with them, my recommendation is based on personal use, I make no money from them :)
|
Patster
|
11/17/09 06:23am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: The new Dodge van?
Fiat is not an upstart company, if they don't have their act together now they never will. As for Dodge's next van, maybe they will listen to my comments (likely not). Bring back the last version of the B van updated of course and if a diesel engine is a key point then use the 4 cylinder Cummins ISF 3.8 engine.
Cummins
|
Patster
|
10/29/09 06:11am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: Mercedes to sell Sprinter, not Dodge in 2010
The new Mercedes 3.0 v6 will be the "BlueTec" engine. Tighter emission standards are in place for 2010. In the Sprinter and SUV's from Mercedes the new engine will use the liquid urea injection to control NOx emissions. As for the rest of the engine it will likely be the same(ish). There will be changes to the intake and exhaust systems, but engine basics should be mostly the same. I knew this was coming down at some point, since the divorce that Daimler would claim sole custody of the Sprinter. Parts distribution for the Sprinter be it a Dodge or Freightliner comes from the same warehouse, not sure when this is due to change, could cause some problems. I will ask around and post if and when i get an answer.
Horsepower is supposed to be up to 210 and torque 398 lb-ft with the new version of the engine, and they say fuel economy improves slightly.
|
Patster
|
09/03/09 03:44am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: How much will it cost to change BRAKES In The Sprinter?
Depending on the year and model of van there are different brake pads, rotors and calipers used, Bosch, Teves, Brembo, make sure the right parts are ordered to avoid more down time. Don't use cheap "white box" brake parts on the Sprinter (or any vehicle) remember you get what you pay for. Sprinter rotors will be toast by the time the pads are worn out, don't turn them or reuse them. Calipers should be good, unless the seals are starting to seep, something that does happen from time to time when the pads are used to the very end. New wear sensors may be needed. Always have the fluid changed when relining the brakes, Sprinters use DOT 4, or DOT 4 plus. First generation Sprinters should have the wheel bearings cleaned and repacked when the front brakes are done, 2007 up use an integral hub/bearing assembly that require no service. A special socket is needed for adjusting the front wheel bearings, and a very precise amount of end play is required for bearing life, if not done correctly it can lead to bearing failure.
|
Patster
|
07/27/09 07:49am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: Sprinter rentals
Indeed the best way to see if you like it, perhaps even see if you can book something that would allow you to try another chassis type back to back, two days in one three the other or something like that. It is a big investment and a spin around the block in a demo won't do it. In fact before my wife buys a new car we rent one for a weekend minimum.
|
Patster
|
05/27/09 04:06pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: 17-18 mpg in 2006 Sprinter...something wrong?
All of our vehicles are speed limited to 114 kph, or 71.25 mph. That may sound like a lot but if you have driven on four lane divided highways in Ontario 114 kph is just enough to keep from being stuck in the slow lane behind and in between tractor trailers. Diving that includes in town, stop and go and highway speeds we get very close to the OP's results. When it is really hot out and the rear A/C is running non stop the mileage drops, when it is really cold and the aux heater is always running, the mileage drops. New Sprinters are not as good as the pre 2007 or "classic Sprinter".
Top complaints from drivers are, a real bear in crosswinds, lack of tilt on the "classic", new drivers seem to take forever to figure out the controls, easily broken air outlets in the dash, poor interior lighting (classic), noisy(classic), easy to get stuck in the snow (unplowed driveways and lane ways), rear passenger seats when unoccupied squeak quite a lot (since new even, both versions), hard seats. Some of these would not apply to the "B" crowd, some might.
|
Patster
|
05/27/09 04:02pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: 17-18 mpg in 2006 Sprinter...something wrong?
What the OP is getting for mileage is not uncommon, or that bad. I have tons of data to back that up, but if I start posting numbers here folks think I am lying, nasty things get said and so on.
|
Patster
|
05/27/09 04:24am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: 17-18 mpg in 2006 Sprinter...something wrong?
Send me a pm and I will fill you in on the mpg situation with Sprinters.
|
Patster
|
04/17/09 09:24am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: Sprinter ?s
One more thing to remember, ANY Dodge dealer can order parts for a Sprinter, and many will work on them also. Not all are set up as Sprinter dealers and cannot do warranty work on them, basic service and parts should never be a problem. If you find yourself 500 miles from an authorized Sprinter dealer and 10 miles from a Dodge dealer you can get the parts from Dodge.
|
Patster
|
04/12/09 08:50am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: Sprinter ?s
I work on both the new and "classic" Sprinters. Both have pluses and minuses to them. The "classic" or pre 2007 does get better fuel economy, the 2.7 5 cyl engine is a little rougher than the new 3.0 v6 diesel. The classic has many areas that were improved or reworked on the new model that were weak areas. The suspension although similar in design on both is wider and carries a larger load smoother and more stable on 2007 and up models, larger brakes and tires as well. The interior is all new, the dash features far better quality controls than the classic and has thus far proved to be more reliable in fleet service with various drivers. The addition of tilt was welcomed from fleet drivers, but they are not universal in praise for the new model, some like the classic better, and some don't like either.
As for reliability and cost of service the new Sprinters do seem prone to electrical problems earlier in life than the classic. Not many parts interchange, so far just some bulbs and engine sensors and transmission filter. Cost for parts is higher, for things such as alternators, water pumps, brake parts on current model Sprinters. Oil changes cost more due to the increase in oil capacity of the 3.0 v6, the air filter costs more but the plus is the cabin air filter is way easier to change.
In summary, the new ones ride smoother and are quieter, a little more plush inside, down side is horse power is only up by 2 and fuel economy is down, you won't beat a classic in a race, and there are electrical gremlins that crop up sooner in life and cost a fair bit more.
The classics get better fuel economy, are not as smooth, a little cheap inside and "quirky" controls by North American standards and problem areas are well know (somewhat) by now.
As for a general tip to any Sprinter owner, if you loose the serpentine belt, or blow a coolant hose...PULL OVER RIGHT AWAY!!! They will not take an overheat very well, just finished up a very costly repair after such an incident. The driver did not go very far after loosing a belt, and it was several thousands in damage. If you have any questions, you can pm me.
|
Patster
|
04/09/09 05:17pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: 2007 Dodge Sprinter Wiring Caution
The latest- Since last week I have seen the second failure of this cable, but a different type of failure. On the second one the termination point at the starter became very warm and melted off a few inches of insulation of each of the cables. Poor connection = resistance, resistance= heat. There was nearly a 1 volt drop between the starter and alternator and at times the alternator not charging message came up on the drivers display.
This cable failed in the way apparently most are failing, according to Chrysler. It could be poor termination of the cables at the starter where the cable from the alternator meets the cable from the main battery. The nut holding the cable to the starter was tight, so that only leaves the actual terminal end on the cable that could have the poor connection. Chrysler has issued a new updated cable, this one is rated for a higher amperage, but before it can be ordered Chrysler wants the dealer to call tech support, they want to know why the cables are being changed. This cable is a known problem to Chrysler, in a short time from now I expect it to be a recall.
|
Patster
|
02/22/09 09:26am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: 2007 Dodge Sprinter Wiring Caution
Just to clarify, if you have one of these 2007 or newer Sprinters with the dual batteries the one under the hood is not the main battery. The main battery is under the drivers side floor and is accessed by by pulling back the floor mat on the drivers side, loosen four torx head screws and slide the cover panel back and remove. To disconnect the power there is a disconnect point just to the right and rear of the accelerator pedal, a black wire with a red lock tab. on 2007's slide the red lock tab down and pull the cable off, 2009's the red tab is depressed and then the connector pulled off. I'm not sure what a 2008 has, we do not have any. This separates the negative side of the battery from the chassis ground. If you are concerned about a fire while parked this connector can be disconnected and the and you would be fine.
If anyone has had to have the alternator replaced on their 2007 or newer Sprinter, let me know, as it seems Dodge is suspecting this cable to cause early failure of the alternator, but not fires. If you have had the alternator replaced under warranty the cable in question may have been replaced, it should show on the work order.
|
Patster
|
02/14/09 03:53pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: 2007 Dodge Sprinter Wiring Caution
Dixied, if your is built on a 2006 and older style chassis (same body style from 200X to 2006) you are fine. We run six of the older body style Sprinters and no issues like this have occurred. This problem so far is with the newer style with the 3.0 liter V6 diesel, I'm not sure if the 3.5 liter gas engine has similar wiring. I will speak to Chrysler Monday about this, if that goes nowhere then I will speak with Transport Canada who are the people who look after vehicle safety recalls in Canada. I will keep you all posted as to what comes from this, if you have any questions, feel free to pm me, I will answer as soon as I can.
|
Patster
|
02/14/09 03:35pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
2007 Dodge Sprinter Wiring Caution
I have posted on the class b page about a potentially serious wiring fire concern with 2007 Dodge Sprinters, 08's & 09's may also be affected. Please read if you or anyone you know owns one. I have tried linking but it is not working for me.
|
Patster
|
02/14/09 07:53am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: 2007 Dodge Sprinter Wiring Caution
Dodge will replace the cable if it is a problem, my understanding is that thus far the only thing it has done is ruin alternators on some vehicles as far as Dodge is concerned. They now know it is also a fire hazard.
In the mean time I have added 5/8" heater hose split down the middle, tie strapped over the area on either side of the fuse link. This is the area where it grounded out. I hope to post some pics today, I have to be careful because of a confidentiality agreement I have with my employer I cannot display pictures of there equipment, property or staff without their prior permission.
|
Patster
|
02/14/09 07:46am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
2007 Dodge Sprinter Wiring Caution
Yesterday I happened to notice a potentially serious wiring defect on 2007 (and possibly up) Dodge Sprinters. The main power cable that runs from the alternator to the starter which contains a 300 amp fuseable link wears through the heat shrink on the fuseable link and grounds out on the metal bracket it mounts to as it crosses under the oil pan just above the power steering rack. In our case the vehicle had been parked for a few hours and the battery was dead, when boosted the "check alt battery" was on the display. I checked it out and it was not charging, while inspecting the wiring it was hard not to notice the large burnt section of main cable and scorch marks on the oil pan and melted plastic.
This is where it gets a little odd. I called our Dodge dealer (who is not a Sprinter dealer, but great to deal with). They said the warehouse did not have stock, but several Sprinter dealers did, including the dealer the vehicles were purchased from. Also there was a notice, before ordering this part number they had to call Chrysler tech line. With part number in hand I called them, yes two in stock but could only sell me one. According to them they have been instructed by Chrysler to ALWAYS HAVE ONE IN STOCK! Chrysler knows about this problem, they trying to deal with it before it gets to a recall stage. My thoughts are that this is a SERIOUS FIRE HAZARD and requires immediate inspection and correction. It was pure luck that this van did not have an underhood fire, the fuel lines pass over the cable junction just above the starter, the chard wire stopped inches from this point, had the battery not gone dead it could have kept the wires hotter longer perhaps long enough to start a much larger fire.
Also, it appears that this fire began with the vehicle parked, engine off. This could happen at ant time, anyplace. In the mean time I have inspected our other Sprinters and have added sections of 5/8 heater hose split down the middle and tie strapped to the cable on either side of the fuselink to isolate it better. The harness that burnt I replaced and I will be contacting Chrysler today and next week to make them aware that the possibility of fire does exist and that they need to look at all of these vans sooner rather than later.
If you have questions, feel free to pm me, I will answer as soon as possible.
|
Patster
|
02/14/09 07:28am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: When people talk power gains, why not a cam?
There are many aftermarket and even oe cams available for the ls engines, Comp cams has even developed some for the vvt engines. There are cams for towing and a wide variety of rpm ranges for max power. There is even a 5.3 HO from GM that turns out 332 hp and 352 ft lbs. Aftermarket and oe heads, intakes......the list goes on are widely available. These engines are by far the best small blocks ever....from anyone. Very different as previously mentioned from the gen 0 through gen 2 small blocks, better in almost every way and it is much cheaper to get big power from these engines reliably than any prior engine. And as a bonus with the lifter trays used on the ls family it is pretty easy to swap a cam.
|
Patster
|
02/09/09 08:51pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: Does propane reduce gas mileage?
Likely what you have is an Impco propane carb on top of the regular 4 bbl. They are an air valve carb and as the throttle plates of the regular carb open the air valve propane carb opens in proportion (it also lifts the propane fuel valve which meters the propane into the air stream). Often engines that were converted were fitted with a different air cleaner housing, in some cases these housings were much smaller than the oe ones, and used a different air filter as well. It is possible that it is restrictive, but you may not notice a significant increase in fuel mileage once it is gone. A few questions I have are what kind of vehicle, engine and what system was installed?
If you do have it removed make certain they do it right, if the tank that supplies the RV side of things is also the motor fuel tank the liquid line to the converter (converts the liquid propane to vapour) should be removed and properly capped at the tank. All the switches, controls, labels, vapour lines, lock offs, and LPG hardward should be removed. You may find it need to get a used air cleaner assembly from an auto wrecker to revert it back to stock, depends.....
|
Patster
|
02/09/09 08:36pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: still no rear brakes
If it were a case of the wrong type of master cyl (drum on a disc vehicle) the rear brakes would always be dragging due to the residual pressure valve in a drum master and he would be smoking his rear brakes. Before diving in too deep and replacing parts on a hunch he needs to asses just what IS happening vs what SHOULD be happening. No mention of spongy or fading pedal, so trapped air is unlikely. Start with the basic tests and go from there.
|
Patster
|
02/05/09 03:38pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
