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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Fuel Mileage?
Over 10 tanks of fuel I would guess 7 mpg.
Id bet on closer to 7 than 10 MPG myself!!
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Sully2
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11/22/09 04:46am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Air filter configuration
This doesn't sound right......you loose surface area if you flow from the inside out. On a flat air filter like you typically see in new cars it wouldn't matter. In a round air filter, generally used in DP's you have a corrugated piece of paper that is glued and held together by wire or nylon mesh. As the paper fans out, it creates more surface area on the outside of the filter vs the smaller/tighter area on the inside. You would want that larger area collecting air and filtering dirt. If you don't the filter would become dirty/plugged almost twice or three times as fast.
The difference in area would be extremely small. Remember that the filter media starts out as a flat piece that has the same area on both sides. Forming the media into a round, pleated filter doesn't do much to change that.
On the other hand, I've never heard of a round engine air filter that filtered from the inside out-----but I suppose there's always a first time.
Right on, right on! The air sees the PLEATS of the media....not the diameters its formed on.
Think of it this way.... If one could mark the inside with an "I"....and the outside with an "O"....them remove it and press it out flat....which side would be larger...:h
Unless one side is "sprayed" with something to help in catching dirt...????... a pleated filter SHOULD work equally good regardless of which way the air ( or whatever) flows thru it.
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Sully2
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11/22/09 04:41am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Annual Maintenance Cost
Flying J lubed, changed my oil filter and oil, and fuel/water seperator for $130.00. I provided the fuel/water seperator.
That aint a bad deal at all!!!!
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Sully2
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11/21/09 06:38pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Need aux brake advice
2Sooners.....
Don't forget that with gas and other items in your "toad" you are looking at about 4000lbs...... that's 2 tons. You didn't state what kind of "Class A" you were getting but what ever it is when you touch that brake pedal you have an additional 2 tons more weight pushing you than you have without the toad. As you motorhome across this great nation, I can assure you that you will have situations occur that will cause you to wish you had additional braking..... and it is a matter of everyone's safety..... your family's and the rest of us.
When I bought mine I did a lot of R&D on almost all of them and it came down to the M & G system and the SMI (Air Force One). I chose the M & G system.
Again, in a panic stop that additional 2 tons pushes pretty good.
Good luck with whatever you decide.
Becker
He ALREADY OWNS a Safari Simba.
And me personally...With its "lighter weight" ( in tons..:B) and the shorter wheelbase that a 30 footer has...me personally....I wouldnt even HOOK UP to tow anything that weighed 4000 lbs without supplemental brakes
Thats where the "ratio" of coach weight VS toad weight ( and short wheelbase) come into play.
The GVWR for the 30 footer is ONLY 20,500 lbs ( Not GCWR...the GVWR)
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Sully2
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11/21/09 10:28am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Annual Maintenance Cost
Blackdiamond is on the money with the $700 figure. As an aside, we just had three fuel filters changed at Freightliner for $168.
Thats exactly why I would never give someone an estimate on annual maintainence.
I just had mine serviced right in my driveway. 5 gal of oil at $10.90 a gal. Oil filter ( Fleetguard filters) was $31. Two fuel filters were a total of $21. The mechanic tossed in the grease...:)...and by the time we were done BSing...I gave him $50 for his labor and good conversation about the rig. We checked all fluids; fan belts and pulled the air filter to take a look. $135.50 total. And the dude does it right in my driveway and gets rid of the used oil for me.
Independent mechanics do it a LOT cheaper
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Sully2
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11/21/09 10:15am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Need aux brake advice
Just read where M & G also has a system available for non air brake coaches. So it would seem, that you don't need air brakes on your coach. But, then the question comes to mind, how are these units with control boxes any better than other units with control boxes? Wouldn't they be susceptible to electronic failure also? I like the idea of the systems simply using air pressure from the coach without any electronics involved, less to go wrong. I have a gasser, and that is why I chose the ReadyBrake, no electronics involved. That fact makes M & G and the SMI air systems look awfully good to me.
Anything can fail and NONE are "fail safe" ( and I doubt any would want it to be ...because once it SLAMMED on the toads brakes at 70 MPG on you because something went haywire you would probably be "deep sixing it") But systems such as the M&G "read" the air brakes on the coach..( or its supplemental AC for the non air brake models) and can be "dialed right on" Its the "sensitivity" of the pendulum weight models that people scream about. It either works or it dont ( being activated) and at times is activated and the owner doesnt know it. ( Hence some mighty high $$$ repair bills)
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Sully2
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11/21/09 10:04am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Water Heater Thoughts and Opinions Please
Hey Gang, hope everyone is doing good. I have the moho all buttoned up and sleeping comfortably for the winter, and was just sitting here thinking about all the things I like and dont like about my current setup. First thing that comes to mind is the 6 gallon propane water heater. For those that have them, you know what I'm talking about. No long hot showers. So, I'm toying with the idea of installing an additional small electric W/H. Say about 5 or so gallons. One element, 1500 watt, 120 volt.
I would probably just put a power cord on it and just plug it up when needed, say in a CG, while the Gray Tank is open. I dont think it would be very helpful when boondocking given the tank capacities for fresh and gray.
Anyway, I would like to hear your opinion, good or bad, or any thoughts you may have on the subject.
Thanks
Dave
If running the gas AND the electric side of the 6 gallon doesnt supply enough hot water...."something aint right"..? If boondocking...run the genset to power the 120 side of the heater.
The wife and I have never run out of hot water, and I use a LOT. As some here on the BB that have met me can testify...I have a LOT of territory to cover when taking a shower...:B
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Sully2
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11/21/09 08:35am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Air filter configuration
While servicing my motorhome the other day, I noticed that my air filter is configured so that the dirty air enters into the center of the filter and the clean air is then drawn into the engine from the outside of the filter.
In the past all the diesel engines I've been familiar with were setup the opposite way. Meaning the dirty air would enter from the outside of the filter and clean air drawn from the inside of the filter.
Now I know why the outside of my filter always looked nice and clean when I changed it. All the dirt is in the inside.
Has anyone else noticed how yours is setup?
Can a dry air filter work just as effectively either way? Has mine been setup incorrectly?
This is on a '97 Monaco Signature with a Cummins M11 engine, air filter is a "Donaldson P12-9472...Wix number 42611
Actually..I dont know just HOW mine flows?...but I always have checked mine visually twice a year. Mine is easy to remove and install ( takes about 2 minutes to get the bolts loose and the cartridge removed...etc) The Wix number is the correct one according to their website...but if I were you Id cross reference the Donaldson with each and every BRAND of filter you may SOMEDAY have to purchase. Best to have the info at hand if its needed if you get my drift?
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Sully2
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11/21/09 08:31am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: DIY guys, organized compt, what'cha think?
Great idea and it looks super. But if i might make a suggestion..?
I see various bottles of "liquids"..? I carry ALL of mine stored INSIDE a RubberMaid "tub" and that way if something were to get "punctured" I wont have, say motor oil, running all over "heck and back". Id hate to see one of those qts of oil dripping DOWN all over everything.
Just a suggestion...
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Sully2
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11/21/09 06:48am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Priced Tiffin 32BA
Just got a call and he's coming down another $ 3,200
If he hasnt met your approx 25% off MSRP...then he is still too high
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Sully2
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11/20/09 05:01pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Priced Tiffin 32BA
Walk and go to another dealer.
Without a doubt!
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Sully2
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11/20/09 09:59am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Need aux brake advice
I have the M&G Brake setup and I think it's a shade more than awesome. No electronics to go bad. No guessing about how much damage it's doing to your brakes when the exhaust brake is activated. Completely foolproof and fail safe. I can hook mine up in 5 seconds and I don't have to get down on my knees or fight setting it up in the rain or cold. I installed my brake on my pickup an about 30 minutes.
And you bought the ONLY one Id have...should I decide to buy one.
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Sully2
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11/20/09 06:57am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Need aux brake advice
29 US states have it and a breakaway cable as required. Then there is the insurance companies that won't pay claims if you are not in compliance with state laws. The brake will stop you in 20% shorter distance which is about 80 feet at highway speeds, a life or death distance.
List those insurance companys ( a lot more internet hooie!!)
20% shorter equals 80 feet...so that means 100% equals 400 feet... Personally..I HAVE NEVER needed 400 feet to stop for ANY reason with my own coach when towing...let alone some "emergency..all hands on deck" sort of stopping!! ( someone has been reading the ads too much!)
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Sully2
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11/20/09 06:55am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Need aux brake advice
We are getting our Class A and toad outfitted to pull 4 down. We will be pulling a 2010 Chevy Equinox weighing approximately 3800 lbs.
Our installing dealer advises against an auxiliary braking system since they know of some instances (gave me names) where the brake locked up and it did major damage. Their argument is that unless we are going into Canada, for instance, the MH can handle 3800 lbs.
Even though I like my dealer, I would like to hear from some of you about this. Have you had that happen to you or do you know of someone it has happened to? Do I really need to go through the expense or installing a braking system? If so, what do you recommend and about what should I expect to pay?
I notice there is another question concerning brakes that was just posted, but it does not really answer the question I have asked here.
Thanks for your help. You are a great resource of knowledge to me.
My rig weighs 30,000 and my Jeep weighs 3800 lbs and I DO NOT use any supplemental braking and FOR MY SETUP I dont need it....BUT...if my toad were heavier or my coach lighter I would...and the only one Id buy is the M&G setup.
With your setup ( weights) and short wheelbase...if you are at about a 15 degree or more angle to the toad and have to slam on the brakes...that toad is going to drive you sideways....and you wont be stopping very quickly.
I understand what your dealer is saying and I also WOULD NOT buy a braking setup that uses the swinging weights inside the box...for more reasons than 1..but too many to go into here anyway.
It wont be cheap..but you need more brakes
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Sully2
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11/20/09 06:52am |
Class A Motorhomes
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HYD filters...Nelson 84220A
Some of us need these for our HYD systems. My own rig uses 3 of them in a large reservoir. Tough to find at times and some places that sell them say they think they will be discontinued..????:E
But after much searching I saw a hint and called my "local" Cummins dealer and even though the local guy didnt stock them... ( they get them from Columbus Ohio) he said he could have mine sent to me in a day or so. ( Good enough because Im not changing fluid till next spring)
I bought the Nelson filters a few years back for the first fluid change and paid nearly $17.oo each ( I need 3 now)...so I ask the costs and he told me......
............
............ $5.96 each!!!!!! Since they come shipped in a 6 item carton...I told him to send me all 6.
So if your one of the guys that needs a Nelson 84220A filter...call Cummins they have the NELSON filters ( seems Fleetguard owns Nelson now..??)
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Sully2
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11/19/09 03:06pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: cleaning water pump filter
My water pressure is extremely low. Past posts have indicated I might need to clean the filter. I had to pull the pump to get to the filter. Now I don't see how to open the filter to check it out. The pump is a Flojet Quiet Quad model 4406. The filter is clear plastic and appears to have been snapped in on the inlet side--will not unscrew. I can see the screen but am determined to get it out for a better look. I hope someone will tell me how this is done. Thanks. Ed
If its the style I think it is ( looks like half of a sphere...i.e.a hemisphere) the flat "lid" twists half way off and it comes apart.
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Sully2
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11/19/09 02:59pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Winter mix in diesel fuel
Howe's Lubricator
Here is a clicky to Howe's website..
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Sully2
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11/19/09 01:49pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Thinking of selling my coach...Am I stupid?
What if you decide after 6 months that full timing is not for the two of you?
All you will show for it, is a newer coach and PAYMENTS.
Keep the paid for coach for awhile and try full timing in it.
Thats DEFINITELY what I would do! But Im not about to attempt to go FT...now or ever
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Sully2
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11/19/09 09:24am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: need your opinion or thoughts (awning)
Im with the rest of the gang here....Id be hostile over a cob job such as that. Take it back....make them do it correctly.
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Sully2
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11/18/09 06:56pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Winter mix in diesel fuel
I use Howe's Lubricator. Cleans injectors; dissipates water that might be in the fuel; and when double dose'd by their own instructions is guaranteed to prevent fuel from gelling.
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Sully2
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11/18/09 03:00pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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