| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: shore electrical hook up
I have a 30 foot class C. My question is when I connect my 30 amp electric cord into a 30 amp home circuit with a 30 amp female to 15 amp male converter cord am I getting 30 amp service or 15 amp service. If it is 15 amp can I run my ac unit without damaging it??
If I understand you correctly, you are plugging a standard MH 30-amp plug into a 30-amp home circuit using an adapter to plug into a standard home outlet.
If this is the case, you do have 30-amp service, but you may also have a fire hazard. The wiring for the adapter is more than likely rated for 20 amps, not 30, so, even assuming your house wiring is rated for 30amps (which would be unusual for a regular house outlet), if you pull more than 20-amps through the adapter it may overheat and start a fire.
Another issue is extension cords. You did not mention one, so I'll assume you are not using one. If that's true, the voltage in the MH should be 110(+) as there is not extension cord to impose a voltage drop.
So, the air condition should work fine, but you should first check the voltage in the MH just to be sure.
Are you sure you have a 30-amp circuit?? I don't think regular home outlets are rated for 30-amps, and would not normally have heavy enough wire for 30-amps. This is most unusual and potentially unsafe.
|
Westronics
|
07/28/10 09:07pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: First time buyer. Looking into Class C's
If you find that perfect floor plan and price for you, don't let the fact that it has a "rubber roof" put you off - they're not that bad - you just got to take care of them and mind the low hanging tree branches! All RV roof's, no matter what they are covered with, require at least yearly maintenance.
Note that there are three common roof materials in use today.
EPDM: A rubber roof. Good stuff, but limited life span. It actually gets thinner over the years and causes nasty "black streaks" that are more than just dirt and grime coming of the roof.
TPO: Very nice. A type of rubber roof (though actually not rubber at all). Last a long time and does not get thinner over time. Like EPDM, it will tear if you catch it just right with a sharp and sturdy branch, for example.
Fiberglass: Pretty easy on maintenance. No stronger than the rubber roofs because it is not structural fiberglass (which would be pretty heavy), but is a thin sheet over a luan base. It would be my first choice, but it would not be much a factor in my decision.
|
Westronics
|
07/28/10 10:49am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Hey Westronics
That seems like a better answer than i could have given you. :)
If it is listed as standard equipment you should certainly have one.
I use one that I have to set up when I hook up the hoses, but it does filter the water for the whole house, and also filters the water that goes into the water tank.
|
Westronics
|
07/28/10 10:41am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Scale to weigh MH - Westminster MD
If you do a Google search for "Westminster, MD truck scales," you'll find quite a few in your area.
You'll want to ask if they can give you a separate weight for each side or, even better, for each of your four corners.
|
Westronics
|
07/28/10 10:38am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Why so few GM class C's?
What about the upfitter price schedule? Who is saying that Ford does not give those buyers sweeter deals including "depoting" vehicles that they don't pay for untill they actually start to use them? There are many reasons Fords are the upfitters choice.
I don't know about that, but I do know that Ford goes out of their way to ensure the cutaway cab dimensions do not change from year-to-year. I don't know if Chevy (and others) do the same or not.
|
Westronics
|
07/28/10 08:56am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Mop-N-Glow for tire protection?
Michelin, in their RV Tire Guide, state that its best to just clean with mild soap and water and use no treatment. They say it is okay to use a tire treatment with no petroleum products, alcohol or silicones. Further, they say extreme caution with tire dressings must be taken as they can react with the antioxidants in the tire and cause damage over time. This damage may show up in an RV when it would not in a car tire that might only be on the car for a few years.
|
Westronics
|
07/28/10 08:06am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Dumping Blackwater
There is no overriding reason to dump before the tank is 3/4 full or so.
You should be using a good bacteria/enzyme mix to break down the waste. If you do that, there is also no great reason to not use the toilet for both "one" and "two." But, to each their own.
|
Westronics
|
07/27/10 01:57pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: RV Mfgs. to Avoid?
Wow. "won't get an honest answer", from what I've seen that's ALL the OP has gotten with everyone saying pretty much the same thing WITHOUT the slightest hint of brand loyalty or denigrating the other brands.
I did not see one single response that answered the poster's question, "RV Mfgs. to Avoid?"
Steve
Actually he had several answers. The answer is there are none to avoid, per se.
|
Westronics
|
07/27/10 11:29am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Harsh Ride
Alas, that is, to some extent, the nature of the beast. Good shocks are a great place to start, and, other than that, there are many expensive after-market improvements you can buy that will help.
The first thing to do is to check with a good mechanic to make sure all suspension components are functioning properly. Most good tire shops can do this for you, if they deal with trucks.
|
Westronics
|
07/25/10 11:38am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Which Class C has all of the following... ?
Drat! I cannot remember which, but some have a bicycle garage in the rear.
It was a neat option, and I assume it still can be found new, but I just don't know.
|
Westronics
|
07/24/10 03:29pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: RV Mfgs. to Avoid?
Pretty much every motorhome will have some issues.
o Things that are pretty much the same:
o Appliances including fridge, oven, microwave, water heater, heater and air conditioner.
o All chassis components, including engine (but there are choices of which chassis to get)
Generator
Things that vary:
o General build quality.
o Cabinetry (some used solid wood cabinets, some do not).
o Floor-plan (well, obviously).
o Tank capacities (water, black, gray)
o Location and operation of fresh water and waste tank valves.
o Method of filling the water tank (gravity fill or from the water hook-up.
My recommendation is you start by ignoring manufacturer. Instead, look first the floor-plan (that's impractical to change later) and second to other features that are important to you. Physically look at as many motorhomes as you can. Decide on which floor-plan is the best fit for you. Then ask for help for which manufacturers carry your favorite floor-plan concentrating on subtle differences like which way the bathroom door opens and whether doors open into the kitchen area or not, and, if so, do they interfere with food prep?
Once you do all that, you'll be down to just a few choices and you can make the final decision.
|
Westronics
|
07/24/10 01:45pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: The Pappa Of Phoenix Cruisers
OK so what is the line that a C become a B or darn near an A?
Technically, it's a "C". "B+" is not an official category and different manufacturers us the term differently - what one calls a "B+ another may very well call a "C."
AT what point does a rig become too heavy for even a Ford 450 to handle? I think that one deserves a ride and see how agile it is or isn't.
Don't get me wrong the room would be appreciated but the weight would be a concern.
Well, that's easy. When it has too much weight so that one cannot load it up for travel and still be under the GVWR (or, more to the point, both GAWRs)
... I wouldn't touch that rig without a diesel under the hood I think the Gas engine would be at it's MAX most of the time and going up the Rockies with that beast would take some work.
I had a heavy Big Foot with no slides towing a jeep and I only hit 35 MPH going up some of those mountain roads with a Gas V-10.
The gas V-10 is designed to pull up to 20,000 lbs. The available diesel engine (is it even available any more??) gives no significant additional torque or HP. You'd need to go up to a heavier duty chassis to get a big diesel engine.
|
Westronics
|
07/23/10 01:05pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Need help with electrical issue
Yes, Heat can cause the cb to trip but not the ambient heat from the sun. You need to turn the power off and check all the wire terminations in the panel. Specifically check the neutral connections, and the main lines coming into the panel and the ground wire. Make sure all connections a clean copper and tight..
I just check the connections and the neutrals are all crispy. The plastic behind the neutral bar is melted in places. I took a picture, but not sure where I can post it on here.
This is likely from drawing too much current, causing excessive heat. low voltage is indeed a possible culprit as to pull the same amount of power at lower voltage required a higher amperage draw.
What should happen is the circuit breaker should trip before any excessive heat builds up, but, if you are right on the edge of too much current the circuit breaker may not trip right away.
I think that's right. In any case, you currently have a fire hazard and need to get this figured out and fixed before something catastrophic happens.
Loose wires, as mentioned, can also be a factor - that's the quickest way to start an electrical fire!
As for the wires, if they are long enough, then yes, cutting them and re-connecting them woudl be wise.
Finally, to post pictures you need to first put them out in the internet somewhere - there are multiple free picture hosting sites you can use.
Good luck with this - it's a serious problem!
|
Westronics
|
07/23/10 12:49pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Leveling questions PLEASE!
I have noticed that a lot of cars are lower in the front also.
That's not the norm - though I certainly have seen it done deliberately as an after-market mod. :)
|
Westronics
|
07/23/10 09:55am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Leveling questions PLEASE!
All good suggestions. I use a more simple approach. Since most class C's are lower in the front,...
??
I don't follow. Most Class C's are dead level when parked on level ground.
The front end is easier to work with, though, as it is much lighter.
I have had 2 class C's, and both were lower in front when parked on level ground. Maybe this is unusual? I have noticed others like this too. I thought they did it on purpose to make the rig more level when loaded (although most Cs are "loaded" with nothing in them) and to reduce scrapping the rear bumper on uneven ground.
I never seen this, but, then, I admit I was not looking for it. That would be a pretty bad design, though. The front end should not be lower when driving down the road or when parking.
|
Westronics
|
07/23/10 09:24am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Leveling questions PLEASE!
All good suggestions. I use a more simple approach. Since most class C's are lower in the front,...
??
I don't follow. Most Class C's are dead level when parked on level ground.
The front end is easier to work with, though, as it is much lighter.
|
Westronics
|
07/23/10 08:59am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: The Pappa Of Phoenix Cruisers
The floor plan looks awful. The house door only opens half-way (when the slide is out, at least). The shower and bathroom doors can collide. The shower appears to be one of those tiny little no-room-to-move units. What were they thinking?
Of course, that's all just from looking at the floor plan. Maybe's it's not as bad as it appears.
|
Westronics
|
07/23/10 07:48am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Radio power draw
Mine works off the chassis battery when the engine is running and the house battery when not. It's the best of both worlds. :)
In any case, the odds are you already have house battery power running up to a switch that allows you to use the house battery for an emergency engine start. You could pull the radio and tap into that line, I suppose.
|
Westronics
|
07/22/10 05:03pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Electrical hookup in Canada
well i had no idea such a simple question would result in so much humor. since traveling outside the u.s. always requires electrical adapters for plugging things in, i thought it not an unreasonable question to ask regarding a motorhome plug in...guess i'll just have to go find out for myself.
The first response you got answered your question (it's the same as in the U.S.). The rest were just having a little fun - expect the couple of serious responses about carry an adapter - same as you should in the U.S.
|
Westronics
|
07/22/10 04:58pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Stereo replacement for E-450 Coachmen?
Generally speaking, the radio is easy to replace.
However, I would be very hesitant top assume it is a double-din. Mine was not for sure.
Generally speaking, there are two basic sized - DIN and Double DIN (also called 1-DIN and 2-DIN).
DIN is 2" x 7" with Double DIN being, not so surprisingly, 4" x 7".
It's east easy to tell which one you have, and then, if you are handy at all, pretty easy to swap it out with a new one.
|
Westronics
|
07/21/10 08:52pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
