mike_mn
Twin Cities, MN
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I have finally completed my first iteration of my binder style wheel chocks for about $20. Hopefully my photo diary will help others that wish to build some of them. Unfortunately, due to a warped 4x4 and no found way to easily measure the blocks for the correct cuts, I had to use trial and error for cutting and fitting the wedges. I may recut/remake these chocks a few more times to make them look a little nicer and easier to store, but for now they are definitely fully functional and met all my expectations.
The following is a cost breakdown for the chocks:
250lb load binder Qty 2 - $12.75 w/tax at Northern
3/8x4 inch Eye Bolt like this Qty 2 - $2.95 w/tax at Northern
3/8 x 12 inch threaded rod like this Qty 2 - $3.30 w/tax at Northern
Washers,Lock Washers, and Nuts
$1-2 should get you there, especially since the eye bolts come with bolts and washers.
4x4x12ft treated Pine - Had it laying around not sure what the lumberyard is charging for this kind of thing these days. If you are going to a lumber yard, be sure to look for the straitest one with the least blemishes you can find, if not for looks then at least for allowing you to cut it strait. You could even go for a Cedar 4x4 if you weren't concerned with cost. The cedar has a smoother nicer looking finish usually.
Here we go...This is an overview of the parts I used to make the Binder Chocks. Also used a miter saw as shown below.
I used a hack saw to cut off the top hook, drilled out the hole to 13/32 and then bolted in the threaded rod.
I used lock washers on both sides and tightened it down.
Like I said, this was trial and error after my attempts at measuring failed miserably.
I settled on a 30 degree cut for the wedges.
For the bottom wedge, I cut a 15 degree relief to allow the binder arm to lock fully. Without doing this, the binder snapped out of position, because it kept hitting the edge of the block.
I drilled a 13/32 hole in the center of the top and bottom wedges. I bolted in the eye bolt to the bottom wedge.
And this is the finished product version 1.0. I double nutted the top wedge and use the lower hook attached to the eye bolt.
Here they are again with my level air style air bags.
I am planning a version 2.0 that cuts down the threaded rod, lightens up the wedges and hopefully adds a little more asthetically pleasing look to these things. Overall I am very happy with the result and can't imagine using any other kind of in between the wheel chocks. No tools needed. Once they are set when tires are cold, they don't need to be readjusted when tires are warm...it just takes a little more ummff to press the binder arm down...a foot helps if they are really tight.
For anyone that likes the idea but is not comfortable building them, contact Chatham Chocks on ebay. He sells a set for $57 shipped. They look a little nicer than mine. He also has a video of them in action if he has an active auction you can see it. Otherwise if you contact him, I am sure he will start a new auction for you.
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downtheroad
Puget Sound
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Joined: 02/18/2003
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Nice write-up and a nice looking project.
Ahhh...a tinkerer, and a man after my own heart. Looks like you had fun with this one.
"If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane"
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wtb
idaho
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hey, those look almost exactly like mine, except that I just put eye bolts through the wooden wedge and then hook the load binder through the eye.
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Chuck_S
Broadview Hts, OH, USA
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Looks great. Do you think the split block will cause problems? Is there is some sort of glass reinforced block that could be substituted?
My commercial Roto Chock blocks are made of that material and the fittings (as far as I can tell) are stainless steel.
-- Chuck
'06 Roo 23SS behind '07 Expedition out of Cleveland
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mike_mn
Twin Cities, MN
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Yeah, the 4x4 I used was crap. It was split down the entire length. I am going to look at some other options for wedge materials, but for now, as tight as I can get them there is no noise coming from the wood(like splitting any further than it was already). They are in there solid. I can get them so tight that I have to kick the wedges out between the tires, but I don't think you need them that tight, so I loosened them to the point where they are firmly holding the tire, but not so tight as to get stuck when removing.
I was thinking about looking for a house where they are building a deck and see if I can get some of that fake/plasticy wood product they are using these days to see if that is an option.
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ferous
Southwestern, MI
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The fake plastic wood parts are not as strong and they are heavier. I built mine with scrap ceader 4x4 from a deck project and built the 1/2" pipe clamps into the 4x4s so I don't need any tools for mine. Just one hand and no feet. 
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mike_mn
Twin Cities, MN
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ferous wrote:The fake plastic wood parts are not as strong and they are heavier. I built mine with scrap ceader 4x4 from a deck project and built the 1/2" pipe clamps into the 4x4s so I don't need any tools for mine. Just one hand and no feet.
Yeah I think Cedar may be the ticket. Do you need to re-adjust your clamps after your tires cool down? 
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ferous
Southwestern, MI
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Mike - by the time the trailer is in position to clamp the wheels, the tires are not warm enough to change the air pressure enough to have to re-adjust.
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bikendan
Napa, Cal.
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Joined: 11/21/2005
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i used pressure-treated 4x4 wood posts for my chocks. they also had some kind of treatment to resist insects.
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mister_d
Southeast, MI - hardly qualified to be a
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Joined: 09/17/2006
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bikendan wrote:i used pressure-treated 4x4 wood posts for my chocks. they also had some kind of treatment to resist insects.
same here
I put my chocks on before I unhitch from the TV. After I get done setting everything else I up I go back and retighten.
One of my swim coaches used to make us tread water with these rubber bricks. It's been awhile, but from what I remember they resembled 4x4 wood posts size wise. I have no idea if they'd work or not, but this thread made me think back to those miserable days.
Edit Oops: I totally forgot to give mike_mn props for a very nice looking set of chocks. Thanks for the detailed post and pictures. One of these days when I'm trying to avoid the honeydo list I will have to look this up and try!
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