explorer72

Corona, CA

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osrob wrote: Thanks all for the responses. Lots of good insight into the issue.
dodge guy gets it. I don't like the way it hunts down to 2nd on a slight grade.
I use Tow Mode, have curtailed CC and run 3rd to gain control, but that won't stop the downshift to 2nd. Running at higher RPM in 3rd will limit the need to drop to 2nd in the 55-60 MPH range.
I am already the slowest guy on the road at 55 and I like a comfortable ride. I don't accept slowing to 45-50 in 2nd is the way to enjoy the open road.
I just completed 4,000 miles in the last month. I was a rookie, but have advanced a grade.
I am curious of a couple comments...
Howl? Is the gear change technically difficult that requires a top technician to do it right? I do need to hire someone to do the work. If I traded the power band issue for a chronic howl, I would be bummed.
I appreciate all the inputs.
Well like I said, if you get someone at a 'turn and burn' axle shop they might get you in and out of there quickly but you'll be left with a noticeable 'howl' if they don't setup the gears just 'perfect'. Another thing that play into affect is what 'type' of gears you get, not all gears are the same and some are more noisy than others. Genuine Gears from 4-Wheel Parts aren't the greatest (no matter what they say). Yukon, Precision Gears, Richmond seem to be the top choices from my research before I got mine (ranked best to good in that order). Just make sure that whoever does the install that they have 'years' of experience doing gear installs and that they have done their fair share of trucks like yours. Also, make sure you follow the 'break in' period to a tee. Whatever the gear manufacture recommends and you might even add a few hundred miles to that number before you tow just to make sure the gears setup well.
Bottom line is if you get cheap gears, bad install, don't follow the break in period, you'll get a howl/whine for sure. Most 'good' shops will warranty their work so if you do get a whine you should be able to take it back and have then try again at no cost. But of course if they do it again you'll have another break in period to follow and have to do the whole thing again.
Good luck
2004 Chevy Avalanche 1500
2008 Jayco Jayflight 28BHS
Never underestimate the power of an Avalanche...LOL
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socalsurfer07

Redondo Beach, CA

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Joined: 10/23/2007

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Interesting. We just got back from a trip up 395 (6-7% grade) and I was down to 25MPH @ 3500 RPM, 1st gear - TERRIBLE. (6500 loaded on the trailer, Tahoe with 3.73's, 5.3). Looks like I could have pushed it a bit harder on the rev's to get up to 35-45 MPH in 2nd but I can't imagine having it in 3rd up that grade. Seemed like my trans temp was headed over 200 every time I pushed it too hard up the grade. Engine temp was creeping too, so I backed off.
'08 Extreme Sportsmaster 252TS
'07 Tahoe 5.3/3.73
Hensley, P3, Factory TC
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propane1320

Edmonton, Ab, Canada

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Joined: 07/06/2008

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There is a good reason why GVW and GCVW go up with numerically higher gear ratios... torque multiplication is the name of the game when you are attempting to move something heavy. Go with the 4.10 and never look back. You will be amazed at how much easier the whole rig gets moving from a standstill and accelerates up inclines. Gear swaps are the oldest hotrodding trick in the book; and for good reason. Words of advice, however, would be to spend the extra few bucks and buy the gears from GM Performance Parts rather than one of the many aftermarket suppliers as the OE gears are machined to a nominal pinion depth which greatly simplifies the install and leaves you with a nice quiet ride when it's all said and done. Happy travels!
2005 Jayco 29BHS dragged by a 2002 F150 7700GVW w/4.10's running on clean burning Digital Propane injection. Or gasoline. If I'm feeling rich that day.
Yeah its old, and it wishes it was a Super Duty, but it beats makin' payments!
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RustySocket

SW Washington

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Joined: 03/02/2005

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osrob wrote: Thanks all for the responses. Lots of good insight into the issue.
dodge guy gets it. I don't like the way it hunts down to 2nd on a slight grade.
I use Tow Mode, have curtailed CC and run 3rd to gain control, but that won't stop the downshift to 2nd. Running at higher RPM in 3rd will limit the need to drop to 2nd in the 55-60 MPH range.
I am already the slowest guy on the road at 55 and I like a comfortable ride. I don't accept slowing to 45-50 in 2nd is the way to enjoy the open road.
I just completed 4,000 miles in the last month. I was a rookie, but have advanced a grade.
I am curious of a couple comments...
Howl? Is the gear change technically difficult that requires a top technician to do it right? I do need to hire someone to do the work. If I traded the power band issue for a chronic howl, I would be bummed.
I appreciate all the inputs.
A gear swap isn't technically difficult, but shimming it and getting the lash adjusted is not necessarily for a first timer either. I'd really condsider what the guy above suggested which would be looking for a salvage complete rear end with the gears already installed. That is a simple do it yourself and a no brainer if you want to go back. Probably your cheapest route as well. IF your talking about a 4x4 it does start to become cost prohibitive.
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SuperDutyMan

Western PA.

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Joined: 02/23/2008

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explorer72 wrote: osrob wrote: Thanks all for the responses. Lots of good insight into the issue.
dodge guy gets it. I don't like the way it hunts down to 2nd on a slight grade.
I use Tow Mode, have curtailed CC and run 3rd to gain control, but that won't stop the downshift to 2nd. Running at higher RPM in 3rd will limit the need to drop to 2nd in the 55-60 MPH range.
I am already the slowest guy on the road at 55 and I like a comfortable ride. I don't accept slowing to 45-50 in 2nd is the way to enjoy the open road.
I just completed 4,000 miles in the last month. I was a rookie, but have advanced a grade.
I am curious of a couple comments...
Howl? Is the gear change technically difficult that requires a top technician to do it right? I do need to hire someone to do the work. If I traded the power band issue for a chronic howl, I would be bummed.
I appreciate all the inputs.
Well like I said, if you get someone at a 'turn and burn' axle shop they might get you in and out of there quickly but you'll be left with a noticeable 'howl' if they don't setup the gears just 'perfect'. Another thing that play into affect is what 'type' of gears you get, not all gears are the same and some are more noisy than others. Genuine Gears from 4-Wheel Parts aren't the greatest (no matter what they say). Yukon, Precision Gears, Richmond seem to be the top choices from my research before I got mine (ranked best to good in that order). Just make sure that whoever does the install that they have 'years' of experience doing gear installs and that they have done their fair share of trucks like yours. Also, make sure you follow the 'break in' period to a tee. Whatever the gear manufacture recommends and you might even add a few hundred miles to that number before you tow just to make sure the gears setup well.
Bottom line is if you get cheap gears, bad install, don't follow the break in period, you'll get a howl/whine for sure. Most 'good' shops will warranty their work so if you do get a whine you should be able to take it back and have then try again at no cost. But of course if they do it again you'll have another break in period to follow and have to do the whole thing again.
Good luck  Explorer72,you are exactly correct...I have a rear end shop,that is my main business,I use Yukon Gears,and Timken bearings,because of years of experience and have a great record with those company's,osrob if you do decide to have a gear change,seek out a good reputable shop to do it right the first time and save yourself a lot of grief.
2008 Keystone Cougar XLite 29RLS
2006 Super Duty V10 6 Speed 4.10S Tow Command Tow Pkg. 4X4
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Hrdley

Los Angeles

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If you decide to change gears, though, beware. I just had to have the rear end in my 2005 Suburban replaced (extended warranty, thankfully) because the spider gears blew out while backing a 6000 lb trailer up a moderately steep driveway. Thankfully I like to use 4wd when backing up my drive or I would have been stuck! You might think about aftermarket gears, 'cause I just don't know how strong the stock gears are.. I have a 2005 Suburban Z-71 with the 5.3 and 4.10 gears, and boy, 5.3's love to rev (which has pretty much been standard for small block Chevys since the beginning of time)! Since the torque peak on the 5.3 is at 4000 rpm, it likes a lot of rpm when pulling a hill. Sometimes I miss my old Dodge Ram with a 5.9 and the torque peak at 3000 rpm. More of a stump puller.
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Wally_Gator

Phillips Ranch, CA

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Joined: 06/05/2007

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Hrdley wrote: If you decide to change gears, though, beware. I just had to have the rear end in my 2005 Suburban replaced (extended warranty, thankfully) because the spider gears blew out while backing a 6000 lb trailer up a moderately steep driveway. Thankfully I like to use 4wd when backing up my drive or I would have been stuck! You might think about aftermarket gears, 'cause I just don't know how strong the stock gears are.. I have a 2005 Suburban Z-71 with the 5.3 and 4.10 gears, and boy, 5.3's love to rev (which has pretty much been standard for small block Chevys since the beginning of time)! Since the torque peak on the 5.3 is at 4000 rpm, it likes a lot of rpm when pulling a hill. Sometimes I miss my old Dodge Ram with a 5.9 and the torque peak at 3000 rpm. More of a stump puller.
Is your driveway paved or dirt? If it is paved, that may be why you blew your spider gears...
2001 Chevy Silverado.
2007 Fleetwood Mallard BHS
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ctbailey

New England

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Joined: 09/18/2003

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I have no trouble whatsoever while towing, and... shudder... I have the 4.8L!
My typical towing is up into the White Mountains of New Hampshire, and admittedly NOT the same as the Rockies, but the Whites have some long, steep grades.
I decided to go with the smallest V-8 that chevy made, primarily for gas mileage. When I'm doing my "weekend warrior" travel trailer hauling, I just slow down and enjoy the trip.
I wish more people would recognize that 90% of "us" RV'ers are weekend warriors, and they could do so much more with the money they saved if they weren't driving a V-10 with 4.10 rear end all year long, just because they will be hauling their TT maybe 4 times a year.
just my $0.02
I'm off my soapbox now.
Craig T. Bailey, PE
- '03 Chevy Silverado 4.8L 4x4 Short Bed
- '04 Surveyor SV235RS by Forest River
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CRAMD

Saskatchewan,Canada

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Joined: 11/21/2006

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FWIW, I had a 2001 Z71 1/2 ton extended cab 4x4 with the 5.3L and 4.10 gears from the factory.I pulled a 26' travel trailer with it, and my towing MPG, at around 60 mph, was at best about 10-11 miles per Canadian gallon, so knock off about 20% for a U.S. gallon.Starting up some of the steeper hills here in Saskatchewan (yes, we do indeed have some dandy hills here),at 60 MPH, the truck would scream like a banshee in third gear, sometimes dropped to second gear, and would loose speed as we moved up the grade.Mileage on the highway empty at 67 mph was at best 17 miles per Canadian gallon.I finally got tired of listening to the screaming of the engine while getting relatively low mileage towing, and went to a 6.6L Duramax/6 speed Allison in a 3/4 ton crew cab short box.
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propane1320

Edmonton, Ab, Canada

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Blowing the spider gears out of the differential has nothing to do with the strength/durabilty of the ring and pinion...
Hrdley wrote: If you decide to change gears, though, beware. I just had to have the rear end in my 2005 Suburban replaced (extended warranty, thankfully) because the spider gears blew out while backing a 6000 lb trailer up a moderately steep driveway. Thankfully I like to use 4wd when backing up my drive or I would have been stuck! You might think about aftermarket gears, 'cause I just don't know how strong the stock gears are.. I have a 2005 Suburban Z-71 with the 5.3 and 4.10 gears, and boy, 5.3's love to rev (which has pretty much been standard for small block Chevys since the beginning of time)! Since the torque peak on the 5.3 is at 4000 rpm, it likes a lot of rpm when pulling a hill. Sometimes I miss my old Dodge Ram with a 5.9 and the torque peak at 3000 rpm. More of a stump puller.
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