OkStateRV'er
Oklahoma
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Joined: 11/04/2004
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We are getting ready to build a 30x50 steel barn for the motorhome. We plan to install electric service (50amp). Do not plan on water or sewer service in the barn since we are on septic & water well(hard water). Plan to run a hose from the water softner system in house to the barn to fill the coach water tank. Could not figure out how to dump black tank to the septic tank. The barn will be about 100 feet from the septic tank.
Will have a concrete drive from the street to the barn. The drive will about 130 feet long. How wide would you make the drive? Planning on an oversized entrance from the street -- how about 20 feet wide??
Any sugestions on other options that we forgot?
Thanks in advance,
* This post was
edited 08/17/08 08:08pm by OkStateRV'er *
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rvten
Crossville,TN
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Well when I had my Pole Barn we lived in the country. SO my driveway to the barn was about 12' wide with plenty of turn around by the barn.
Put a clean out closer to your septic that you can hook up to. The sewer conn. in my present garage is about 60' from the main sewer conn. for the house main line.
Tom & Bonnie
Crossville, TN.
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DeweyClawson
Enon Valley, PA
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If it is down hill to the septic, put in a 4" pvc line to the septic with a cleanout on the end, same fitting as many dumps. OR... get 2 50 ft 1 1/2" or 2" discharge hoses ($40 - Northern Tool) and a macerator.
Driveway.. 800 ft paved 10 ft wide is no problem. entrance is about 30 ft. It is straight and where it turns is wider. 36' Tradewinds
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Musicman
Wenatchee, WA
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Another solution to the dumping issue might be the use of a maserator (sp?) pump and a 3/4 inch garden hose. I have pumped and emptied my tanks 100 feet from the clean-out port.
Just a thought.
Musicman
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ArchHoagland
Clovis, CA, USA
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I set my house up to store my coach next to it with full hookups. Having the sewer dump available is REALLY nice.
If I were you I'd do some more thinking about hooking into the septic tank. You won't use it that often, but when necessary it is very nice.
The entrance to my storage pad is about 11 feet. Your 20 feet should be ample.
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DeweyClawson
Enon Valley, PA
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Make sure there are no open rafters for birds to roost in. messy
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mferris72
Albuquerque NM
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Put a drain in the middle of the floor and run it into a field drain pipe. You can wash indoors this way.
Mike Ferris
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OkieGene
oklahoma city
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Joined: 01/06/2004
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If it was me, I'd make it tall enough that I could inspect the m/h roof and be able to get up on it. I'd also make the barn long enough that I'd be able to park the m/h and toad inside and close the doors. Really nice in bad weather.
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OkStateRV'er
Oklahoma
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Due to HOA restrictions, the barn max is the 30X50 size with 14 foot door and in-barn clearance. So can not walk around on the MH roof in the barn. Store the toad in the house garage. The barn floor will be concrete.
* This post was
edited 08/17/08 08:54pm by OkStateRV'er *
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JUrban
Delaware
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When you do the electric work, be sure you put in a lot of receptacles along the sides. Also don't place your lights in the center. Rather, along the upper sidewalls.
The comment about birds is well said. Keeping them out requires tight doors and constant effort.
You didn't mention a floor, but something to consider. Our 42x96' barn had a dirt floor for 5 years without a problem. We put four 2'x2' concrete pads in the floor for the jacks to rest on, and had no problems. This year we put in a level concrete floor so I can now easily adjust ride height and more easily work under it.
Although we don't have water or sewer connections in the barn, we have them easily accessible to the driveway. Our sewer line is 120' of 4" schedule 20 pvc sloped 1/4" to 1/2" to the foot to our septic system. In some areas it's only buried 4". Took about 4 hours to dig in with a shovel.
Good luck with it.
John
2008 Tiffin Allegro Bus 40' QSP
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