Randyl81
Illinois
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Joined: 04/25/2007
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Sice I have prchased my new 5ver I have camped 7 weekends, this last one I was on a real nice rock site completely level and for some reason seemed to have more movement than I have ever had. Mine is 37' long with four slides, I have electrict jacks front and back, bal wedges ( the kind you lay on the ground in between the tires and tighten the wedges tight to both tires) for both sides and I even had a 4x4's under the back jacks and 2x12's under trhe front jacks so that either pair were extended very far. Maybe you could tell me in what order you people set up yours to get the best results or what I might have dione wrong?
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tvman44
Southwest Louisiana
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Joined: 09/25/2007
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It is the nature of the beast. Get some JT Strongarm Stabilizers and you will have no movement. 
Papa Bob
1* DW "Granny"
1* 2008 Brookside Sunnybrook 32'
1* 2002 F250 Super Duty 7.3L PSD
Husky 16K hitch, Tekonsha P3,
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"A bad day camping is better than a good day at work!"
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siliconjunkie
Buckhannon, WV
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Joined: 04/25/2004
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Just to get it out of the way, rotochoks. I am sure someone will come along to recommend them.
I personally use the BAL scissor chocks that go between the tires. They work well for me. I have found that I normally have to go back after a day and give the back jacks a bit of a crank and the same for the chocks.
Some swear by the tripods, but I have never felt the need for one on my unit.
JT Strongarms are popular as well, but I belive they are backordered right now.
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larry barnhart
wenatchee. wa usa
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could be the dirt or what ever you parked on.
chevman
chevman
2001 35 ft avalon alpenlite RK
2005 3500 2wd duramax CC dually
prodigy
easyrider/reese airhitch
trailair center point suspension
JT Strong Arm Stabilizers
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outdoorsman2007
In the Woods - Somewhere!
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Joined: 04/12/2007
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Rotochoks are nice, and work very well, but excessively expensive. I made a pair for less than $25 that does the same job.
We first level side to side by rolling up on wood, then we chock the tires tight. Next we use the landing legs to level front to back after unhitching. Once level we lower the rear stabilizer jacks. Usually this will throw the level out a little so I will extend the landing legs just a hair more to get level again. Be careful here if your rear jacks are designed to stabilize instead of holding a lot of weight. Then I add my king pin bipod stabilizer. Usually that has us fairly solid.
A good hint is not to stack a lot of wood under your jacks. I usually only have one piece of 2x10 under each jack foot to keep it off of the ground. If you stack wood under your jacks you will be less stable.
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Vulcaneer
Northern New England
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Joined: 10/17/2007
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Randy, Here is what I do, since you asked.
Back into site. And level side to side.
Chock (ground Clocks) wheels front and rear
Back into rear chocks to unload hitch jaw.
Then I go back and "Tighten" the front chocks up to the wheel
Lower front elevators to the ground blocks and unhook breakaway and umbilical
Pull release handle on hitch
Raise front of trailer so I can pull the truck out
Then I level the front of the trailer
Then put down rear stabilizers on blocks with a little bit of pressure
After a day our two I check the level and I go back and tighten (or Loosen) the rear stabs a bit if needed. Depending on the softness of the ground under the wheels or the elevators or stabilizers there is usually some settling somewhere.
If I notice too much wiggle in the trailer, I adjust the rear stabs as needed.
2006 F350 V10 4X4 SC SB SRW 4.30 22,500 GCWR
Keystone Sprinter 33'9" 12,500 GVWR
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wittmeba
Roanoke, Va
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Joined: 02/02/2001
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When you say 'Rock site' - do you mean gravel? If so, gravel will shift even with wood for a base from any movement and that will make your stabalizers loose - but maybe not enought where you noticed other than movement.
Bruce & Carolyn Wittmeier
Viet Nam Vet 1968-69
2001 Ford F250 4X4 OffRoad, Auto ESOF, KingCab, ShortBed, Airlift Airbags, DiPricol gauges, SCT-Tuner from DP-Tuners (40/80/120HP), Bilsteins, Reese Slider, Jordan, 2001 30RKFS SunnyBrook w/personal touches.
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Randyl81
Illinois
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Joined: 04/25/2007
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I failed to mention that I had my tripod on the front as well.
siliconjunkie wrote:Just to get it out of the way, rotochoks. I am sure someone will come along to recommend them.
I personally use the BAL scissor chocks that go between the tires. They work well for me. I have found that I normally have to go back after a day and give the back jacks a bit of a crank and the same for the chocks.
Some swear by the tripods, but I have never felt the need for one on my unit.
JT Strongarms are popular as well, but I belive they are backordered right now.
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sdfleetwing
SD
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Joined: 04/01/2008
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It may be true that too many wood blocks might make the trailer less stable. However, with my camper the jacks are more stable the less they are extended so I use blocks. I use stacked 2x12's so it is a nice wide base.
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danskool
Elma, N.Y.
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Joined: 07/24/2004
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Vulcaneer wrote:
Chock (ground Clocks) wheels front and rear
Back into rear chocks to unload hitch jaw.
Then I go back and "Tighten" the front chocks up to the wheel
I do everything else that was mentioned. But i like pinching up the wheels with wheel chocks idea. I will have to make up some ground chocks.
I use a tripod on the front. Rock solid. But my arse-end jiggles. Going to make up a stabilizer thingy soon so stop the jiggles in the back. The rear jacks suck air. The keep you from bouncing down. But sideways they lack greatly. You can see them flexing just with the slightest nudge on the bumper.
Dan
2005 Crossroads Cruiser 27RL
2001 F250 XLT 7.3 PSD
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