Trvlngnrs
St. George, UT
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Joined: 10/26/2004
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Someone broke into my trailer and took a bunch of stuff, including my generic weight distributing hitch with friction sway control. It came with the trailer when I bought it.
I need to buy another one....any recommendations. I can get a Husky, with 1,000lb spring locally for $350. I never noticed a problem towing my FB2200 behind my Duramax, with the generic setup. Any comments on the Husky brand?
I did a search and read that the Reese Dual Cam can bind up/bend when backing/turning. I don't really want to add any more potential problems.
Will I have to drill in the frame with any of the setups?
Regards,
Steve
St. George, UT
'06 WW FB2200
'07 Outlander Max XT
'04 Chevy Duramax
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kknowlton
Wisconsin Border Country, IL
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Joined: 05/27/2005
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You didn't mention the Equal-i-zer, but you wouldn't have to drill into the frame to install one of those.
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campercajun
Central Texas Hill Country
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Joined: 08/09/2007
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I have been using Reese Dual-Cams for years, and the Reese Strait-Line Hitch w/included Dual-Cam HP since Feb. of 2007. In my experience, I think those who say that binding of the snap-up chains or bending of any components of the Reese Dual-Cam on turning or backing are either proponents of other brands of hitches, or are repeating something that they heard from someone who heard it from someone else. It's never happened to me, with either the older Dual-Cam or the newer Dual-Cam HP.
Both Reese and Equal-I-Zer say that you can apply a light lubricant VERY SPARINGLY to either the Dual-Cam and the "saddles" that they ride in, or the Equal-I-Zer's WD bars and L-brackets. And I have used an almost invisible coat of white Reese Hitch Grease on the Dual-Cam every time I hitch up. I also wipe it clean each time I unhitch, to prevent grease buildup, and dirty, gritty grease.
If you don't lubricate either the Dual-Cam or the Equal-I-Zer, you will get clunks with the Dual-Cam, caused by rusty/dirty Dual-Cam and WD bar "saddle" surfaces binding, then suddenly releasing as you turn/back up. The Equal-I-Zer will do the same. The difference is, on the Equal-I-Zer, you are more likely to hear a high-pitched shriek or squeal instead of a clunk.
Our family uses mostly Dual-Cams for TTs, but we have a couple of Equal-I-Zers, also, so we've had years of experience with both. I prefer the Dual-Cam because of the self-centering feature, which centers the trailer, and if it tries to move sideways, increases tension on the WD bars and forces the "cams" back into the "saddles". But neither our users of the Dual-Cam nor users of the Equal-I-zer have any sway problems, even with 30-35' TTs.
Because of a short driveway, I must almost jackknife my TT to get it turned parallel with my RV garage before the rear of the trailer enters the RV garage door. I do not remove my WD bars/Dual Cam before I back my trailer into our RV garage, and I have no clunks, squeaks, binding, or missing paint on the sides of the A-frames where the chains ride, especially with the Dual-Cam HP, on which the Dual-Cam brackets hold the chains further away from the side of the frame.
Don't be afraid of the Dual-Cam for the reason stated above. A nearly invisible coat of very light grease (even Vaseline will work) will prevent noise with either the Dual Cam or the Equal-I-Zer. Just be especially careful in lubricating the Equal-I-Zer. It's sway control depends entirely on the friction between the WD bars and the L-brackets, and too much (enough to see well) lubricant reduces the effectiveness of the sway control noticeably. The Dual-Cam is not quite as sensitive, as it rides in the center detent position, anyway, and it takes quite a bit of force to cause the "cams" to move out of the "saddles". But you still don't want enough grease or lubricant on the surfaces of the Dual-Cam so that you can easily see it.
With the original Dual-Cam, and the Equal-I-Zer, you won't have to drill holes in the trailer's A-frame. With the Dual-Cam HP, you will have to drill 4 holes. However, with the Dual-Cam HP you aren't likely to have to remove the LP bottles and bottle racks in order to mount the hitch/sway control, because the sway control bolts onto the bottom of the trailer's frame. The original Dual-Cam and the Equal-I-Zer clamp onto the frame with U-bolt type clamps, and often require you to have to remove the bottles to install the clamping brackets, and sometimes, move the bottle racks, if they interfere with the hitch/sway control parts.
2003 GMC Sierra Crew HD; 6.0L; Prodigy
2006 Thor Tundra 30RL-DSL; Reese Strait-Line & Dual-cam HP
2001 Honda Elite Scooter
Jim & Gayle Bryant
Murphy's Law: "Anything that CAN happen, WILL."
Bryant's Law: "31 years of RVing? Probably already HAS."
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Chuck&Gail
In the Colorado Mountains
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Joined: 06/16/2004
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Love our Equal-i-zer. Over 50,000 miles on it, and do NOT remove to back up. Never had a problem.
Chuck
Wonderful Wife
Lovely German Shepherd.
1999 Mercedes ML320 TV
2003 Wanderer 187TB Toybox (3620# UVW, 4800# loaded)
Not yet camped in Hawaii, 2 Canada Provinces, & 2 Territories.
I can't be lost because I don't care where this lovely road is going
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DUNES4ME
Lakewood
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Joined: 08/11/2006
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I have the older Reese dual-cam (1200/12,000) and have had no problems at all. I think some of the negative comments you heard may come from the fact that the old version (MINE) has a limit on the turning radius. Too sharp and it will bind and the bars pop out. The new version does not have this limitation due to the lowered saddle/bar brackets. After a Hensley or Pull-rite, the Reese is the best for solid design, ease of use, and most important, sway control. IMHO
2005 Dodge 3500 DRW,48RE,4.10 / 2004 WEEKEND WARRIOR FS3000
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Big Baldy
Las Vegas, NV
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Joined: 04/25/2005
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When I had my TT I replaced the Husky that came with it with an Equalizer. I paid $399.00 delivered off the internet. Install was easy with no drilling. Hitch performed very well and hooked up quick. I would definitely recommend it.
2008 Dodge Ram 3500 Mega Cab 4X4 SRW 6.7L CTD
2006 Weekend Warrior LE3305
2008 Polaris SPortsman 700X2
2007 Honda Rancher TRX420
2007 Polaris Sawtooth 200
2007 Polaris Sportsman 90
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ragged63
Salem, OR
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Joined: 03/04/2005
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I just bought a 1200# huskey brand hitch for $270 through a local dealer and so far have been very happy with it. I had a ez-lift before and just was not happy with it.
2001 Ford F-250 PSD,LB,4x4,6" Procomp lift,35"bfg's,16x10 Helo wheels.
2005 Sandpiper 31sp.
2004 honda trx400 ex (dad's)
2002 polaris trailblazer 250 (mom's)
2004 Honda TRX250ex (daughters)
http://community.webshots.com/user/ragged63
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Trvlngnrs
St. George, UT
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Joined: 10/26/2004
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Thanks for the info guys!
I made the rounds at the local dealers today. One of them has some of the Reese Pro Series SC ( http://www.etrailer.com/pc-wdpssc~49579.htm ) hitches he wants to get rid of. I bought an 11,000lb hitch, with sway control similar to the Equalizer, for $250.
He's got more for $250 if anyone is interested I can give you the dealers info.
Regards,
Steve
St. George, UT 84770
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PSNFM
Palm Desert, CA
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Joined: 08/25/2008
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If you haven't purchased anything yet, seriously check out Curt Manufacturing. I got a WD hitch through AdventureRV.net, for $139. Sway control is another $60, so figure $199 and even at that price its tough to beat. It's a 1000lb tongue weight rated set and it is VERY solid.
EDIT: I see you bought something already, oh well. I guess this can be future info for others.
2006 Nissan Titan XE Crew Cab 5.6L - 6.5" lift, 35" tires, NAV.
2008 Carson FL162 FunRunner Toy Hauler
2008 Kawasaki Teryx 750 4x4 - JG Fab 4-seat cage, Crow 4-point harnesses front and rear, billet exhaust tip, much more to come...
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rhino623
Black Canyon City, AZ
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Joined: 10/17/2006
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I have an Equal-i-zer hitch and its worth every penny
2003 2500HD 6.6 D\A
2006 Sandpiper t28sp
2006 Rhino
2004 Polaris Predator TLE
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