mkirsch
Rochester, NY
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Joined: 04/09/2004
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Matt,
Have you considered Coroplast for the siding? It's that corrugated plastic material that they make signs and displays out of. You've certainly seen it at gas stations, and there's a lot of it in people's front lawns this time of year.
You can get it in 4x8 sheets at a sign shop for about $10 a sheet in white, or any of several common colors. It's light, cheap, and weatherproof. In fact I just got done building a 4x8 enclosed trailer using Coroplast over plywood.
Don't use construction adhesive to bond the Coroplast to the plywood, though... Coroplast is impervious to most solvents, but apparently not construction adhesive. I've got a bunch of nasty wrinkles on the left side of the trailer because I used too much adhesive. Next time I'm trying the odorless contact cement.
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Sportsman Matt
Blackstone, MA
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Joined: 10/16/2007
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Biggest issue is length of the top section. I can't have any verticle seams in any of the panels other than where the sides meet the other panels. I don't want any overlaps, or have to play with the possibility of leaks anywhere, plus a verticle seam 8 feet from the nose or 8 feet from the rear looks very unsightly and unprofessional looking. One thing also is weight issue. Adding plywood to the exterior adds weight, and weight is a factor when considering I am running a 1/2 ton truck. (Before anyone comments about getting a bigger truck, put your money where your mouth is and purchase a new one, paid in full and delivered and titled to me, then I will have no problem with the comments about the larger truck) Plus the Coroplast wouldn't hold up as I would have to adhesive it to the framework to get a good waterproof surface (anywhere a staple or screw or nail goes through an exterior surface is a spot where water can enter)
Looks like next week I'll be procuring the materials to build the frame and floor assembly, then slowly work on it this winter, and in the spring, I'll be ready to assemble the whole thing, plan is right now 4 weekends (2 8 hour days each weekend with 2 to 3 people) to be assembled and sealed up for the weather.
One thing I was looking at was they call for corrugated staples for all subframe connections, I'm looking at dowel pins and plenty of glue to make sure it gets a good tight fit.
Life is short, Play harder.
2002 GMC Sierra 1500 Regular Cab Long Bed 4.3L V6 Automatic 2WD
1989 Sunline C-750 Slide In Truck Camper
7'6" Floor, 11'6" OAL
Fishing and Hunting New England and eventually the world
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wp6529
TX
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Joined: 08/26/2006
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You might consider using pocket hole screw joints with good glue. The Kregg pocket hole jigs make for fast, solid connections.
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AnEv942
CA
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Joined: 10/10/2003
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Sportsman Matt wrote:Just need to figure out the picture posting again. ...
Simple Matt once you have pics uploaded somewhere, the harder part. Need to set up account with one of the pic storage sites, photobucket etc. Just clic the Image button to bring up editor window, enter url (address) where pictures is. Size not required but makes it REALLY nice while the page loads, act as place holder for pics. Looking forward to your progress. Theres probaly a guide somewhere on this site how to do pics..
Really wanna see pics...Mark
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SoCalDesertRider
SanDiego, CA, USA
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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hard3 wrote:I think if I were to build from scratch , I would build it like an enclosed cargo trailer. Built with steel frame and walls and skin with coated metal. steel wall studs with spray foam insulation. It would weigh more but it would be stout and sealed up tight. It could be from aluminum but it would cost more. This is how the Callen campers are built here in San Diego. Very strong quality built and seem to last forever. They can still leak cause they're still made from aluminum siding like the old wood campers, but the steel takes alot longer to rust out than the wood does to rot.
I agree, an aluminum tube frame would be nicer than steel, though quite a bit more expensive to build.
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Reddog1
El Dorado, CA
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Joined: 03/09/2004
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Sportsman Matt wrote:... I'm looking at dowel pins and plenty of glue to make sure it gets a good tight fit. You might consider briskets, instead of dowels. I think they would do a better job, and be easier to work with.
Wayne
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wp6529
TX
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Joined: 08/26/2006
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Reddog1 wrote:Sportsman Matt wrote:... I'm looking at dowel pins and plenty of glue to make sure it gets a good tight fit. You might consider briskets, instead of dowels. I think they would do a better job, and be easier to work with.
Wayne
Briskets would be real nice in my smoker, but wouldn't be terribly useful for joining wood parts. Biscuit joints might work better, though I still rather like pocket hole screws.
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Sportsman Matt
Blackstone, MA
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I'm looking at the pocket holes jigs, and the dowel pins are easier to install than the biscuits, plus I don't need any specialized tools to do it, as to install dowel pins I already have the tools (other than the doweling jig) to do the work. The biscuit technique looks good, but the cost for me to set up to do biscuits cost far more than what it would cost me to do dowel pins. The pocket screw jig looks like a good idea, got to do some more research into how well it would work as far as structural losses, although the frame is reinforced by design with the paneling and glue also.
As for the pics, I need to figure out my password to my Flickr and Photoshop accounts. Then I can start on the pics again.
I looked at the steel frame idea on the other camper design (the non cabover) but the idea of having to drill every hole in the steel and use screws and nuts to secure panels and flooring to it looks like a lot more work than it's worth, especially when you need to loctite everything and over time you still need to get in and retighten everything due to vibrations from travel.
Looks like I'm starting on November 6th weather permitting (need to bring the lumber home in an open truck bed and don't want it soaked or water damaged)
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wp6529
TX
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Joined: 08/26/2006
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A couple more comments:
A key advantage of the pocket hole screws is that they do not require extended clamping time or delays in fabrication while glue dries like biscuits or dowels do. You use the quick vise grip type clamp to hold alignment while the screws are installed and then you remove them. The glue gives the joint additional strength, but the screws give it more than enough to hold it while you continue on with assembly. The Kregg site should have test data comparing joint strength with other techniques. The Kregg jig kit isn't terribly expensive and the time saved on a project like a camper should more than make up for the cost.
On the steel / metal frame idea, you do not need to use bolts and nuts for attaching panels, etc. You normally use self drilling screws that install with just a normal drill / screw gun. Commercial trailers are all built using these fasteners to attach siding, decking, etc. The frame itself you would of course weld.
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Sportsman Matt
Blackstone, MA
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Problem with self tappers is depending on the matrerial being secured to. I've had self tapping screws strip out before seating due to hsrder steel than the screw, or stripped out holes due to the screw stripping the metal due to weaker metal.
I'm going for 2 dowel pins, one pocket screw, and plenty of glue. Should hold everything.
I've got my prices, looks like I'll be building this for less than $6000 to have it structurally sound and useable, probably spend total around $8000 with all the fun stuff installed.
The siding, rubber roof, and rear door are going to cost $1500 plus shipping (another $300) not too unreasonable.
Starting this weekend weather permitting.
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