adventureseeker714
Tustin, CA
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Joined: 08/11/2007
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My camper was hand built, but has a steel frame instead. The steel was welded at the joints (mig) and wood used only to shape the overhang at the back door and the cabover, then attached with self tappers to the steel.
The camper is heavy, but it is sturdy as heck and wood rot is almost a non-issue.
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Sportsman Matt
Blackstone, MA
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Joined: 10/16/2007
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Well the weekend is over, got nothing done due to the girlfriend being sick with the flu since Thursday Night. Did go to Lowes, didn't like the lumber they had in stock, lot of ratty looking 2x12's with lots of pine pitch oozing out of their "Premium Kiln Dried" lumber. I'll hit Home Depot tomorrow morning for dowel pins and a couple 2"x12"s to rip down. On the plus side I did pick up a couple things, a rip guide for my Ryobi Cordless Saw, a doweling jig, and a new item, the Plate Vise by Tri-Vise. The plate vise is cool, will make cutting the ends of the 1x and 2x stock easier without worrying about the material shifting out from underhand.
So one more week, looks like I'll be catching up next week, flu permitting.
Life is short, Play harder.
2002 GMC Sierra 1500 Regular Cab Long Bed 4.3L V6 Automatic 2WD
1989 Sunline C-750 Slide In Truck Camper
7'6" Floor, 11'6" OAL
Fishing and Hunting New England and eventually the world
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Sportsman Matt
Blackstone, MA
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Joined: 10/16/2007
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Update...
The most fustrating time trying to rip a 2"x14" into 2"x2"s, I found that I can cut 2 8' 2"x2" boards with my Ryobi 18V saw, and then I need to put the batteries in the fridge to cool them off before charging or else the charger gives a false full charge indicator due to the thermal protection built into the battery. So far 4 2"x2"x96" cut, need a couple more to cut down and start the bottom frame, probably by Friday morning I'll have the framework ready for glue and plywood.
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lazorus
Alberta
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Joined: 11/10/2009
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I own that same saw, I love it...i have ripped probably 100 2x6 and cut up at least 20 sheets of 3/4 mdf...and it keeps on going! I am interested in building my own camper or renovating one, maybe adding a slide out. I have been looking for pictures of reno's but havent found much yet...Keep your spirits up, dont let anyone bring you down!
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Sportsman Matt
Blackstone, MA
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Joined: 10/16/2007
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The only fustrating part is I only get to rip 14 feet per battery pack, and the recharge takes about 90 to 120 minutes depending on how quickly I discharged the packs. I like the saw concept, especially being able to work outside without having to run a 100 foot extension cord out the window of the apartment to my truck out on the street.
As for the renovations, check out Truck Camper University, loads of customizing projects there, plus JoeChiOki has a bunch he's done here on the forum.
Also search water damage, there is plenty of posts and pics about repairs to older units.
I'm building my own, based on the fact that everything in my price range is either
A) Overpriced and poor construction quality
B) Overpriced and junk
C) Priced accordingly, and not worth fixing
D) Priced low enough that you can afford the book of matches and a gallon of premium unleaded to put it out of it's misery
E) Plain and simple, Someone Else's Junk due to lack of upkeep.
With that said, I've got to rip one board 2 more feet and then I can start cutting the 2x2 stock to length and start making the floor framework, probably get it ready to glue by Saturday morning if I don't run into any problems.
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JoeChiOhki
Keizer, Oregon
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Joined: 11/20/2003
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Matt, if you want to rip lumber efficiently, you're going to need a good Delta Table saw with a guide and either a couple of stand rollers or a second person to help guide them as they're pushed through.
Trying to rip them with a hand held cutting device will just send you into nightmares of hassle and expended time.
* This post was
edited 11/11/09 05:23pm by JoeChiOhki *
Follow along with me at The Journey of the Redneck Express
CB Channel 17 Redneck Express
'1992 Dodge W-250 Power Wagon - Club Cab Long Bed V8 5.9L 4spd H.D Auto 4x4 4.10 Gears
'1974 KIT Kamper 1106 - 11' Slide-in
'1987 Pullman Mini Camper
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Sportsman Matt
Blackstone, MA
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Joined: 10/16/2007
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I fully agree with you on that, problem is I live on a first floor apartment 4 feet above street level with no outside storage, no inside storage (tucking materials behind the furnature and under beds right now) and no outside electricity. So I'm going to stick with the 18V cordless for now, only need to rip a couple more boards over the next few weeks, then the fun stuff, like moving the whole project to my father's place after the beginning of the year (plus the expanded interior semi heated workspace.
Ran into a little snag on the blueprints, think Glen L missed it, the floor frame is 95" long, and calls for a 96" piece of plywood. Doesn't mention cutting the plywood down, but in the documentation, it shows the rear wall outside the floor, and the front wall flush with the floor's front edge. I'm guessing they forgot to change the 96" to 95" on the plywood, seeing everything else corresponds to the 95" floor length.
So far can't wait to rip that last board and start assembling.
One other downfall is living in an apartment building, I can't work on it when I get home after midnight from work, so I have to work on it before I leave for work in the morning.
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Reddog1
El Dorado, CA
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Joined: 03/09/2004
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You might want to take a look at doug fir, treated for mud sill use. It is kiln dried, and usually very straight and light in weight.
Wayne
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Photomike
Southern Alberta
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Joined: 04/26/2008
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Sportsman Matt wrote:I fully agree with you on that, problem is I live on a first floor apartment 4 feet above street level with no outside storage, no inside storage (tucking materials behind the furnature and under beds right now) and no outside electricity. So I'm going to stick with the 18V cordless for now, only need to rip a couple more boards over the next few weeks, then the fun stuff, like moving the whole project to my father's place after the beginning of the year (plus the expanded interior semi heated workspace.
Ran into a little snag on the blueprints, think Glen L missed it, the floor frame is 95" long, and calls for a 96" piece of plywood. Doesn't mention cutting the plywood down, but in the documentation, it shows the rear wall outside the floor, and the front wall flush with the floor's front edge. I'm guessing they forgot to change the 96" to 95" on the plywood, seeing everything else corresponds to the 95" floor length.
So far can't wait to rip that last board and start assembling.
One other downfall is living in an apartment building, I can't work on it when I get home after midnight from work, so I have to work on it before I leave for work in the morning.
Haven't seen the blue prints but one thing that I would do if building my own (and I was sure I would be keeping the truck) is to build it around the wheel wells. It would require you to jack it up a lot higher if you were taking it off, but done right the extra floor space (or storage space), as well as the stability (would never slide out) would be worth it. It would add a lot more space. At the least I would make sure that I have access to the front of the wheel wells on both sides to use for storage. This is one thing I will never understand on our NL, access to only one side and then a long way back from the front.
2002 GMC 2500HD 4x4 4 Door
1992 Northern Lite 9'- 6" Camper
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kennyzzz
buffalo new york
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Joined: 09/04/2003
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wow, mat
glad too hear that you started the project.
wishing you good luck.
I too had the same dream to build my own but health problems will never
let me do it.
looking forward to the updates on the camper.
Chevy 2008 1500 X-cab 5.3 373 posi 4x4 z-71
2003 jayco quest 190 4059 lbs.
2004 Northern light 8.5
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