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mecreature

Indianapolis, IN

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Posted: 10/06/09 09:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

shum02 wrote:

Ron Gratz wrote:


Can you please list some factors which you consider to be much more important than TV and TT weight and explain why?

Ron


How much he spent on his hitch.


Speed

345jeep

Fort Worth, TX

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Posted: 10/06/09 09:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gman22 wrote:

If there so much validity to it, why doesn't Ford mention it in my Expedition's manual?


My Jeep's owner's manual says that I can tow up to 30' of TT provided that I use weight distribution as needed and stay within weight limits. I'm sorry Chrysler, but I will stick with my 'conventional wisdom' and keep the TT length down. Even though I have all sorts of modern bandaids that didn't exist in the old days such as sway control, anti-lock brakes, etc., I will still be safer with a shorter TT using this particular 110' WB TV. Do I have engineering proof, slalom results, and all sorts of calculations. No...just some basic common sense that this TV is ill-matched for a 30' TT.


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Road Ruler

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Posted: 10/06/09 04:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ron Gratz wrote:



Can you please list some factors which you consider to be much more important than TV and TT weight and explain why?

Ron


If folks paid more attention to balance, aerodynamics, suspension, centre of gravity, brake controller quality/setup, and hitches they wouldn't have to be so concerned about weight and length.

Some of the best handling combinations that have ever graced this earth have....

A. A tow vehicle that weighs 1/2 as much as the trailer and

B. A 30' plus trailer that is being towed by a TV that has a wheel base less than 120"


Airstreams.... the best towing trailers on the planet!


roughing_it

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Posted: 10/06/09 06:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

To answer the original question, yes I think that if everything else is equal, a heavier trailer will be less sensitive to the wind. Of course a heavier trailer would probably cost you more in gas, especially in stop and go driving. If you want resistance to wind, you want a shorter trailer and one that is more aerodynamic.

I think one of the key trailer properties is the side-wind area (length x height) that is exposed to the crosswind. My trailer is relatively light (4500 lbs) for its length (26 feet) and I do get pushed around by the wind more than I would like.

I bought some airtabs to try because one of their main benefits is supposed to be added stability from crosswinds and passing trucks. I have not installed them yet, but I will post something about the results.

Regarding sway stability, here are is my prioritized list that is backed up by a theoretical understanding and some instrumented testing:
1. Yaw inertia of the trailer - lower is better (see http://www.towingstabilitystudies.co.uk/measuring_stability.htm) for more information. This is very important, but hard to measure. In my pop up, the cargo weight is a much more significant part of the total weight and when I loaded for low yaw inertia, the sway was much better. I have also done experiments where the tongue load is always 10%, but we varied the yaw inertia and it had a huge effect on the sway stability.
2. Longer axle to ball distance, this tends get longer with longer trailers, so it is rarely something that distinguishes TT's from each other. However boat trailers tend to have this distance be longer than TT's and also have lower tongue weights and you generally see much fewer anti-sway devices on boat trailers.
3. Tongue weight - more is better
4. Trailer tires (cornering stiffness which is influenced by inflation pressure and tire type)
5. Tow vehicle rear overhang to wheelbase ratio (less overhang is better, longer wheelbase is better, consider shortening your ball mount)
6. Tow vehicle wheelbase - longer is better
7. Tow vehicle cornering stiffness - higher is better (this is a function of the tires and suspension. Also heavier vehicles tend to have higher cornering stiffness)

The hitch and anti-sway devices can make a difference also. I have tightened my anti-sway device and I find that it changes the way everything reacts to passing trucks. With the device on, but not real tight, a passing truck makes the combination wiggle but does not really affect the path. With the device tighter, a passing truck will tend to move the TT and TV sideways so I do need to steer to stay in the middle of the lane.

I have never used or tested a Hensley (or ProPride), but I can see that it does 2 things:
1. It makes the trailer better behaved because the pivot point is further away from the trailer axle(s) which reduces the tendency for the trailer to sway.
2. It makes the tow vehicle much stiffer laterally since the lateral loads go in something like 55 inches forward of the hitch, so the overhang is around zero.

A friend of mine pulls his 34' TT with an Expedition and he had a Reese Dual Cam hitch. Because he got pushed around by wind and passing trucks so much he bought a ProPride hitch and has been very happy with the improved stability.


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Ron Gratz

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Posted: 10/06/09 07:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Road Ruler wrote:

If folks paid more attention to balance, aerodynamics, suspension, centre of gravity, brake controller quality/setup, and hitches they wouldn't have to be so concerned about weight and length.

Some of the best handling combinations that have ever graced this earth have....

A. A tow vehicle that weighs 1/2 as much as the trailer and

B. A 30' plus trailer that is being towed by a TV that has a wheel base less than 120"

Perhaps we could limit this discussion to the more "conventional" TV/TT combinations -- i.e. the vast majority which are not an Airstream trailer towed by a Dodge Intrepid (or something similar). Also, it would help to limit the discussion to yaw stability which was the basis for my initial comments.

Balance - what balance are you referring to and why do you feel that balance is much more important than the weight of TV and TT as regards yaw stability?

Aerodynamics - TV and TT aerodynamic characteristics primarily affect towing power requirements. Lateral aerodynamic forces acting on the TT are primarily resisted by TT weight and yaw inertia (which is dependent on TT weight). How can aerodynamics be much more important than weight?

Suspension - the suspension characteristics help to determine lateral stability, yaw stability, and roll stability. So does TV weight. How can suspension be much more important than weight?

Centre of Gravity - given the typical variations in location and height of TV and TT COGs, how much influence do you believe COG has on yaw stability and how much influence do you believe TV and TT weight have on yaw stability?

Brake Controller - how does quality/setup enter into yaw stability and why is it much more important than TV and TT weight?

Hitches - In your opinion, are there hitches which will allow a user to safely disregard TV/TT weight relationships?

Ron

Ron Gratz

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Posted: 10/06/09 08:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

roughing_it wrote:

---Regarding sway stability, here are is my prioritized list that is backed up by a theoretical understanding and some instrumented testing:
1. Yaw inertia of the trailer - lower is better (see http://www.towingstabilitystudies.co.uk/measuring_stability.htm) for more information. This is very important, but hard to measure. In my pop up, the cargo weight is a much more significant part of the total weight and when I loaded for low yaw inertia, the sway was much better. I have also done experiments where the tongue load is always 10%, but we varied the yaw inertia and it had a huge effect on the sway stability.
2. Longer axle to ball distance, this tends get longer with longer trailers, so it is rarely something that distinguishes TT's from each other. However boat trailers tend to have this distance be longer than TT's and also have lower tongue weights and you generally see much fewer anti-sway devices on boat trailers.
3. Tongue weight - more is better
4. Trailer tires (cornering stiffness which is influenced by inflation pressure and tire type)
5. Tow vehicle rear overhang to wheelbase ratio (less overhang is better, longer wheelbase is better, consider shortening your ball mount)
6. Tow vehicle wheelbase - longer is better
7. Tow vehicle cornering stiffness - higher is better (this is a function of the tires and suspension. Also heavier vehicles tend to have higher cornering stiffness)
I note that neither TV weight nor TV yaw inertia is included in your list. Do you think they should be? If so, where would you rank them? The University of Bath towing studies which you referenced are a good source of towing "sensitivity" information. For example: THE DYNAMICS OF TOWED VEHICLES.

Quote:

I have never used or tested a Hensley (or ProPride), but I can see that it does 2 things:
1. It makes the trailer better behaved because the pivot point is further away from the trailer axle(s) which reduces the tendency for the trailer to sway.
2. It makes the tow vehicle much stiffer laterally since the lateral loads go in something like 55 inches forward of the hitch, so the overhang is around zero.
The virtual pivot point is projected about 54" forward from the ball coupler. For many TVs, this places the VPP about 24" behind the center of the rear axle.

Ron

SteveRankin

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Posted: 10/06/09 11:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

npenn wrote:

Ductape wrote:

Those old formulas are junk.
We've been towing a 24 footer for years with three different tow vehicles ranging from 106 - 112 inches, all over the states including western plains and the Rockies.
No sway problems; zip, zero, nada.

You need a properly set up quality hitch -We use an Equalizer brand- and a properly designed and loaded trailer and you won't have sway. We have a trailer with independent suspension and low COG.
I would rather tow this trailer with a short TV than a top heavy leaf sprung TT behind a long truck.

Our previous rig was a diesel truck and fifth wheel, BTW.


Engineers use facts from calculations that are extremely accurate and do not rely on experiences and unfounded assumptions. Most calculations are conservative and allow for the many other variables as noted in this thread. Deviating from the calculations requires other factors to be in specifications or even better then specifications. Does not mean that one cannot as you pointed out deviate from the numbers and not achieve success. However, doing so raises the possibility of failure and the potential failure may occur under circumstances that have not presented themselves under your experiences.

That said, the formulas help make decisions especially when one is trying to vary more then a small deviation from the calculations. Lets say the TV can handle a 23 ft. TT but you are looking at 32 ft models that are in your GVW. I would suggest you consider a new TV or a smaller TT. However, if you are looking at a 25 ft TT with all other properties correctly configured then this deviation maybe acceptable.

I respectively disagree with your junk comment, the calculations are a very good reference point and should be considered.

Travel Safe


Ditto.

Those old formula are still valid. The physics of towing travel trailers has not changed.

Yes, there are advanced hitches that will allow a short wheel base vehicle to tow a heavier/longer trailer with relative safety.

Note: The Hensley Arrow, ProPride and PullRite are advanced hitches that make a TT simulate the stability of a 5th wheel by moving the pivot point forward. Hitches that use friction--no matter how fancy or slick the design--are not advanced hitches and simply aren't nearly as effective.

But, back to the OP's question: A heavier trailer may be more stable in windy conditions than a light trailer, however, the heavy trailer will also be more capable of wagging the dog than a light trailer. In other words, the heavier trailer might not move around quite as much, but when it does, it WILL be noticed.

If you're planning on traveling a lot, and traveling through windy areas and this concerns you, then spend the money on a Hensley or ProPride, or the PullRite. The Hensley/ProPride will feel more stable at highway speeds than the PullRite; however the PullRite will actually be more stable overall.


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Road Ruler

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Posted: 10/07/09 06:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ron Gratz wrote:


Perhaps we could limit this discussion to the more "conventional" TV/TT combinations -- i.e. the vast majority which are not an Airstream trailer towed by a Dodge Intrepid (or something similar).



Ok........... yaw-n!

Ron Gratz

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Posted: 10/07/09 07:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

Those old formula are still valid.

Nobody seems to know how or by whom the old "formula" was derived; so it's pretty hard to know if it was ever valid. Perhaps it has some merit if you want to tow a 1950s/60s TT with a 1950s/60s sedan.

Quote:

The physics of towing travel trailers has not changed.

I agree. Physics has not changed. However, tow vehicles and travel trailers have changed.

The formula says that a 130" WB 3/4 ton Suburban cannot safely tow a TT longer than 25'. And, we must assume the 25' is ball-to-bumper since the formula does not state otherwise.

I doubt the formula was based on physics. More likely, it was based on loosely-applied statistics for TV/TT combinations of the day. Physics says TT weight should matter; the formula says it does not. Physics says TV weight should matter; the formula says it does not. Physics says TV rear overhang should matter; the formula says it does not.

There are better ways of determining how much a TV can tow.

Ron

npenn

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Posted: 10/07/09 11:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ron Gratz wrote:

Quote:

Those old formula are still valid.

Nobody seems to know how or by whom the old "formula" was derived; so it's pretty hard to know if it was ever valid. Perhaps it has some merit if you want to tow a 1950s/60s TT with a 1950s/60s sedan.

Quote:

The physics of towing travel trailers has not changed.

I agree. Physics has not changed. However, tow vehicles and travel trailers have changed.

The formula says that a 130" WB 3/4 ton Suburban cannot safely tow a TT longer than 25'. And, we must assume the 25' is ball-to-bumper since the formula does not state otherwise.

I doubt the formula was based on physics. More likely, it was based on loosely-applied statistics for TV/TT combinations of the day. Physics says TT weight should matter; the formula says it does not. Physics says TV weight should matter; the formula says it does not. Physics says TV rear overhang should matter; the formula says it does not.

There are better ways of determining how much a TV can tow.

Ron


Missing the point IMO, everyone jumped the TV to TT length and skewed the post as it was the only calculation of any importance. If you read the posts you will see that TT length is just ONE aspect of configuring a TV to TT ratio, and the point of my post was, it is not JUNK, and should be carefully considered.

We can argue forever about origin, old school, but totally ignoring this ratio is a big mistake. New construction of todays TT are making them longer and lighter, which allows smaller and lighter TV to keep within their GVW while allowing the TV to TT length ratio to rapidly increase. Alarming actually, even with new technologies in the hitch, aerodynamics, suspension, and other aspects of the TT design, bad decisions could easily be made which impact the safety if the TT length is totally ignored as suggested.

To those who point out that a super sized TV does not fit the formula, that is a good argument, and may require a newer updated formula noting that such vehicles were most likely not available when the calculations were made. The factor in the new technology hitches, and TT aerodynamics, and we have a winner.

The bottom line, using the existing formula is a very good starting point (until a new one is calculated), then factor in, new technology hitches, paying attention to TV sizes, matching the TT to TV aerodynamics, and a good deal of common sense, a safe towing environment is sure to be the out come.

The very best thing to do if in doubt is trust the salesman at your local RV dealer.

Travel Safe

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