270sprint
Concord, NC
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Joined: 05/17/2009
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OK, here is a brief background. I hooked up my recently purchased TT (2007 Cherokee 28A+) to my 04 Chevy Silverado with factory tow package. I wired in a prodogy using the factory supplied harness 2 years ago. This truck has been used for 2 years to tow a Jayco 20bh with only one brake issue, the brake actuator was replaced on the trailer.
Now that is over here is my issue! I can tow the Cherokee trailer and my brake controller goes nuts throwing codes after about 10 - 20 minutes in tow, I get SH, PL, n.c., and even a . . (not connected) code on the display. It will work a little as well. I can hook the RV up at the campsite or at home and using the slide bar and brake petal not recreate what I see towing, it works great. I have shaked and pulled all the wires all the way back to the wheels while putting a full load on the brakes using the slide, never see any codes or issues. I cleaned up all the ground connects to the frame of the camper just to see if that helped but it did it again in tow. I have a tester for the 7 pin connector on the truck and it always passes appling the electric brakes using the controller. The lights are not affected while I am getting all these codes one right after another.
Anyone ever have this happen? Waht was it or what to do? If it was just broke I would feel better and be not so confused? Thanks for any help anyone may send back.
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bldrbuck
Boulder, Colorado
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Joined: 02/11/2001
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You say you have check all of the wiring. Does that include the wires to the brakes at the axle? A short could be any place in the wiring. An open or not connected probably in the wire to the first brake. There is a great difference between sitting stationary in a driveway and bouncing down the road.
93 Ford F350 Turbo Diesel, DRW, Crew Cab. PullRite Hitch. 90 Nomad 28' 5er, 375 Watts Solar, 2800 Watt Yamaha Generator, 1750 Watt Inverter, 4 Trogan T105 Batteries, Spare tire and wheel and folding ladder. Me, wife and 2 spoiled Maltise furkids.
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b_salgado
Salisbury ,NC,USA
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I had the same exact issue! IT took me forever to find the problem. I checked all wiring and connectors from the plug to the wheels. I physically ran my hand along each and every wire to check for a nick or cut. They were all perfect. I then proceeded to remove each wheel and hub. This was a time consuming process. All the wires on the first 3 wheels were perfect and clipped to the brake actuator arm as they should have been. The last wheel I removed, I found the wires for the magnet had never been clipped to the actuator arm. The clips were there, just not attached. There was a pinhole in one of the wires. I cut it, slipped on some heatshrink tubing, got out the soldering gun and repaired the wire! No more issues to date. This was on a brand new trailer.
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1kennyOG
Toronto
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Joined: 01/22/2007
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I had the same issue and it was one of the wires on one of the wheels. not sure of all the details because the dealer had to repair it.
2007 Kodiak 214 HTT
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Gdetrailer
PA
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Joined: 01/05/2007
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Here is my take.
Scrap the factory wiring on the trailer, it is usually undersized and may have multiple splices before it ever reaches the axles.
If the wiring is run through the axle tubes, that is where the problem is (very common issue). While it sounds like a great idea, what happens in real life is the wire moves inside the tube which chaffes the insulation. This will cause the error codes you see.
It is possble the problem may be caused by a chaffed wire inside one of the drums, so you might wish to check that first. If the magnet wires are in good shape inside the drums then consider running new wire from the tongue to the axles and then wire tie the wires accross the axles.
I would recommend 10ga stranded wire as a starting point, this will give much better braking power.
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Trailer Trash 2
Santa Fe Springs, CA
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Joined: 06/01/2004
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Check your ground wire if you dont have a good ground it will cause codes from the controler, another place to look is the wiring to the brake plates sometimes they get rubbed and will short out on the frame or the wire nut comes loose. my 2 cents worth. good luck
Don & Georgia
AKA: Trailer Trash 2
Real trucks don't have spark plugs.
2009, Dodge, 3500, Q Cab, Cum/Diesel, D.R.W.
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cmartin7143
ILL
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Poor ground. trailer to truck. good luck
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JJBIRISH
Butler, PA, USA
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Joined: 10/06/2002
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If you do end up rewiring the brakes run a separate lead to each wheel, you will have better braking and safer breaking… since you are troubleshooting them, it would be a good time to do this…
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dbbls
Missouri
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I'll also bet the wire in the axle is the problem. Rewire with the wire on the outside of the axle and I'll bet your problem will go away.
1999 F250 Superduty, V10 with Banks Power Pack
2004 Colorado 29RL 5th wheel with 3600 watt Onan
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LAdams
Northern Illinois
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I'll cast my vote for the chafed wire in one of the brake drums... I've had the retaining clips come loose twice on two differrent trailers over the last few years and the brake wire was rubbing on the inner hub bearing and caused an intermittien short... In one case, it actually finally rubbed all the thru severing the wire and causing a loss of brake on that wheel...
Inside the axle could be the problem but I would put my money on a intermittent short in one of the brake drums...
Les
2000 Ford F-250SD, XLT, 4X4 Off Road, SuperCab
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