b_salgado
Salisbury ,NC,USA
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Gdetrailer wrote:Here is my take.
Scrap the factory wiring on the trailer, it is usually undersized and may have multiple splices before it ever reaches the axles.
If the wiring is run through the axle tubes, that is where the problem is (very common issue). While it sounds like a great idea, what happens in real life is the wire moves inside the tube which chaffes the insulation. This will cause the error codes you see.
It is possble the problem may be caused by a chaffed wire inside one of the drums, so you might wish to check that first. If the magnet wires are in good shape inside the drums then consider running new wire from the tongue to the axles and then wire tie the wires accross the axles.
I would recommend 10ga stranded wire as a starting point, this will give much better braking power. This is a 2007 trailer. The OP lives in NC. Chafing inside the axle tubes is very unlikely at the present time due to the age of the unit. We don't have the corrosive environment here that most have to deal with. I also went directly to the axle tubes to look for issues. I actually had plastic coated wire with anti short bushings on each end of my trailer axles. I would be willing to bet that there is some kind of conduit running down the frame rail for the wiring to go from the tongue to the axles. When I checked mine, I tied a string to the end of the wire and pulled it all out. It was in perfect condition. I pulled the wire back through with the string. I put my money on the hub assembly. P.S..... if you can't find the issue, send me a PM. I am just down the road from you in Salisbury. I will give you a hand!
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chestercarpenter
Michigan
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I had a similar problem. The wire nut used to connect the wire at one wheel was rubbing against the brake drum and would intermittently short out the system while moving.
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camping cowleys
Elgin, IL
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I vote for the wire in the axle tubes. It does not happen where the wire enters the tubes through the bushing, but in the length of the tube where the wire is free to bounce and rub the insulation off. Both of my previous trailers had break problems and this was the source of the problem. As previously mentioned just run new wires on the outside (backside) of the tubes and tiewrap them in place. A quick and easy fix.
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Gdetrailer
PA
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Joined: 01/05/2007
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b_salgado writes "This is a 2007 trailer. The OP lives in NC. Chafing inside the axle tubes is very unlikely at the present time due to the age of the unit. We don't have the corrosive environment here that most have to deal with. I also went directly to the axle tubes to look for issues. I actually had plastic coated wire with anti short bushings on each end of my trailer axles."
Doesn't matter the age of unit or even if there is a "corrosive enviroment". The fact that the wires are placed inside a oversize tube (axle) which is not smooth on the inside like real conduit, leads to the insulation chaffing as the wires move back and forth inside the tube.
The axle tube is not the proper way to run any wiring since the inside surface will be rough when comparing to electrical conduit which must meet a specific smoothness.
Wether you wish to believe it or not, this is a common issue when ever the wires are run inside the axle tube.
Both of my TTs never had the wires inside the drums held in place by anything, they just are loose inside the drum. Never had any wire rub or worn insulation and that was TTs that were of 1981 and 1984 vintage. The 1984 even came from CA so I am sure it has LOTS of mileage. I am not saying that it couldn't happen (inside the drum) but I do know I have read lots of posts right here on RV.net that the official diagnosis was chaffed wire INSIDE the AXLE TUBE.
OP also mentioned that sitting still they could not recreate the problem.
Specifically "Now that is over here is my issue! I can tow the Cherokee trailer and my brake controller goes nuts throwing codes after about 10 - 20 minutes in tow, I get SH, PL, n.c., and even a . . (not connected) code on the display. It will work a little as well. I can hook the RV up at the campsite or at home and using the slide bar and brake petal not recreate what I see towing, it works great. I have shaked and pulled all the wires all the way back to the wheels while putting a full load on the brakes using the slide, never see any codes or issues. "
camping cowleys writes "It does not happen where the wire enters the tubes through the bushing, but in the length of the tube where the wire is free to bounce and rub the insulation off."
Correct, best way to handle this is to wire tie NEW wire to the OUTSIDE of the axle tube. This ensures that the chaffing will never happen again.
You can spend days trying to hunt out the problem but the fastest way is to simply REPLACE the wiring (of course feel free to check the magnet wires inside the drums). Even temporarly disconnect the old wiring and splice in some fresh wire as a test and then take it for a test drive to see if that fixes it.
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LAdams
Northern Illinois
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There are about equal numbers of posts regarding wire chaffing in axle tubes and brake wires rubbing on brake drums... When I ran across my first brake wire scraped by inner bearing hub, I had already pulled the wiring out of the axle tube and it was in near pristine condition little to no signs of abrasion... Not to say it doesn't happen but mine was near perfect...
I agree with rewiring - I did mine a year or two ago and went with 10 ga. super stranded and a star configuration as well as going over all truck connections and grounds... ALL my TT brake connections from truck to brake magnets are now soldered and the improvement over the OEM wiring was a HUGE improvement...
Les
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