seraphim
Ohio
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Joined: 02/03/2008
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I appreciate all the responses. I might need to take in in and have it checked, although I'm sure it's probably my ignorance. The dealer can provide another walk-through: for a price, I'm sure.
John
Our furnace is beneath the half tub, and I've located no independent shutoff for it. I've only tried the furnace twice - once when we picked up the unit and got a 'walk-through' and on our last trip. (We generally used an electric heater, but we've recently got into boondocking).
The only shutoffs we have are the tank shutoff, and the electric shutoff that closes the supply if it detects propane inside the unit. Just above that - in the cabinet near the door - is and electric switch that ignites the burner for the water tank.
On our last trip we turned on the furnace but the air was cold and never warmed. I turned on the igniter for the water (just to see what would happen) and thirty seconds later had warm air coming from the vents.
Common sense indicates this is an ignorant way to set up the unit, so I suspect something is wrong. If you can tell me where your furnace shutoff is, I'll look again, but I remember nothing like it from the walk through.
Growing old is no excuse for growing up.
1995 Intervec Falcon 190
The GyrFalcon
(pronounced jer-falcon}
Jerry and Gail Hartwig (with Ben in the middle)
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Hit The Road Jack
Treasure Coast of Florida
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Joined: 10/20/2005
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seraphim wrote:I appreciate all the responses. I might need to take in in and have it checked, although I'm sure it's probably my ignorance. The dealer can provide another walk-through: for a price, I'm sure.
John
Our furnace is beneath the half tub, and I've located no independent shutoff for it. I've only tried the furnace twice - once when we picked up the unit and got a 'walk-through' and on our last trip. (We generally used an electric heater, but we've recently got into boondocking).
The only shutoffs we have are the tank shutoff, and the electric shutoff that closes the supply if it detects propane inside the unit. Just above that - in the cabinet near the door - is and electric switch that ignites the burner for the water tank.
On our last trip we turned on the furnace but the air was cold and never warmed. I turned on the igniter for the water (just to see what would happen) and thirty seconds later had warm air coming from the vents.
Common sense indicates this is an ignorant way to set up the unit, so I suspect something is wrong. If you can tell me where your furnace shutoff is, I'll look again, but I remember nothing like it from the walk through.
Hi Jerry!
Was there water in the water heater tank when you fired her up?
If there is no isolated control for the water heater, you can trace back the electrical & propane feed lines. If you can't detect any shut-off for either, you may want to install/have installed an in-line electrical shut-off switch/breaker and an in-line (gas approved) brass ball valve propane shut-off...
Watts Gas Ball Valve GBV 3/8" (0545001)
2006 DIY Dodge Badged Sprinter Conversion
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Handbasket
Asheville, NC
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Joined: 01/17/2003
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seraphim wrote:......
On our last trip we turned on the furnace but the air was cold and never warmed. I turned on the igniter for the water (just to see what would happen) and thirty seconds later had warm air coming from the vents.
.......
Without knowing how your unit is set up or equipped, I'm gonna take a WAG here.
How long did you wait for warm air? It could have taken several minutes, considering the following two things:
First, at least the three I've had, the furnace takes probably a minute or so to establish air flow. The blower runs, but nothing happens, seemingly forever, until the sensor (sail switch, I think) is 'satisfied' that adequate combustion air is flowing. Then it goes thru the 'switch on the ignitor & open the LP solenoid valve' sequence. Once flame is established, it takes maybe another 30-60 seconds for the heat exchanger to warm up and the outflowing air to warm up. Even when everything is 'right', it seems to blow cold air on your ankles for a looonnng time. Running on battery alone, this may take a bit longer, since the blower is turning a bit slower (I'm unsure on this).
Second, if your LP system had been unused for a while, it may have had had air in the line. Purging that air thru the furnace burner could take a while. Lighting a stove burner briefly will likely help this.
But all this is just a 'maybe' cause.
Jim, "Mo' coffee!"
'06 Tiger CX 'C Minus' on a Silverado 2500HD 4x4, 8.1 & Allison ('Loafer's Glory'); '07 Forester 2.5 ( the 'HANDBSKT'); '95 Toyota SR5 V-6 4x4 pickup, ARB locker, Bilsteins, Warn hubs & M8000, etc;
'94 968, M030 swaybars ('DOPPLER')
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seraphim
Ohio
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Jim
I don't specifically recall how long I waited, but I already had in mind to make the attempt again. I believe I had waited a sufficient time, but, just in case...
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seraphim
Ohio
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Problem solved.
As I suspected, the problem was me. I turned on the furnace independently, walked away, and checked it ten minutes later: warm air.
Either I was too impatient last time or hadn't checked the thermostat setting..
I'm sorry if I wasted everyone's time, but I appreciate the responses - they eventually led me to the solution.
Thanks again.
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JoeRT04
Cape Cod, MA
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Joined: 12/16/2005
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Good Sam RV Club
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I think what might be causing the confusion is that in a typical stick house, an oil or gas furnace often also heats the hot water. This does not apply to RV's as I understand it.
On RV's (at least every RV I've owned), the furnace and hot water heater are two different units. They are not connected at all.
And, yes, you will damage the hot water heater if you turn it on without water in the unit as I understand it.
On edit: I see seraphim is all set. I evidently entered this reply a few minutes, uh, hours, too late. 
2004/05 Roadtrek 190 Versatile
FMCA F380826
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seraphim
Ohio
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Thanks, anyway, Joe, but as I said, the problem was I didn't spend enough time looking at the problem before running for assistance LOL.
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