Trailer Life Magazine Open Roads Forum: Towing: Jordan brake contoller
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DCDOC

Manteca, Ca.

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Posted: 11/02/09 03:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have had a Jordan bc since 2002 with no problems. This past year the controller has been working intermitenly. Pushing the red knob rapidly will sometimes clear the problem up for a short time.The rheostat seems to be sticking.Has anyone opened their jordan controller and cleaned the electronics inside.


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pulsar

Lewisville, NC

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Posted: 11/02/09 03:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Moved from Technology Corner.

Road Ruler

Canada

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Posted: 11/02/09 04:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The red knob on mine sticks too if not used. I had it apart 5 or 6 years ago. Can't recall much about it but it did work when I put it back together. Don't think it was that complicated.


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TXiceman

(Near) Houston,TX

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Posted: 11/03/09 05:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My Jordan started acting up earlier this year and I tracked the problem to a worn potentiometer (linear sliding type). Decided it was DEAD and ordered a MaxBrake to replace it and love the MaxBrake.

Ken


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Vintage 1979 Silver Streak Supreme Rocket toted by a 2002 F350, crewcab dually, 7.3L,4.10 axle,SCMT. Travel with two miniature Schnauzers and one African Gray parrot. Practicing for retirement!

SJR

Philadelphia, PA

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Posted: 11/08/09 05:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had the same problem and found this on a diesel forum, I tried it and it fixed the problem. The following is copied from that site-

As shown in the first sketch at the bottom, when the controller is in the relaxed position, the two little contact blocks don't touch. This tells the rest of the controller circuitry not to apply any braking power, since your foot is not on the brake.

When you first apply the brake, the finger at the right of the sketch is pushed leftward, and very quickly makes contact with the finger on the left. This is the second sketch at the bottom. Note that the contact blocks do not meet squarely - the corner of one block touches the face of the other.

As you apply the brake further (third sketch), the corner of one block "wipes" across the face of the other block. This is intentional. The wiping action keeps the contact faces clean. But after a million applications or so, the wiping action wears away the hard metal coating, to the point where electrical contact is not made. This is the problem we have all been seeing. Even though the contact points are physically touching, they are not making electrical contact, so the rest of the circuitry thinks the switch is still in the relaxed position, and braking power is not applied. And then, when you depress the brake far enough, the right-hand contact finally wipes down to a place where the wear is not so bad. At that point, electrical contact is made, and the rest of the circuitry generates the braking power that is called for by the position of the slide pot.

The solution is to bend the leftmost finger of the switch so that initial contact takes place at a different point on the contact blocks. Use a pair of needlenose pliers and gently reshape the finger. The new shape is not critical - just bend it until initial contact occurs at a different place from where it originally did.






Stephan
2003 Jayco Kiwi 21C
2008 Dodge SLT QC 1500
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nickelAF

Charleston, WV

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Posted: 11/08/09 09:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would like to see the Jordon avilable once more. Camco is setting on it now with no plans to produce it.


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