ressless1

Western North Carolina

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Joined: 05/24/2006

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I have run accross several 1994-1995 34 foot Fleetwood motorhomes, a 1995 Bounder, 1994 Coronado, 1994 Flair and 1995 Southwind Storm. Appearances look clean and maintained, milage varies from 34,000 to 61,000, and all with the Chevy 454 engine.
Prices run between 10,000 and 15,000.
The appeal is to upgrade from a travel trailer to a motorhome for long weekend trips and vacations. Plans would include towing a motorcycle trailer, about 3,000 lbs.
Is there any reason for a fellow with big dreams and a small budget to shy away from these units? Can the vast experience here recommend other brands to look for, or stay away from in the general year range and budget?
Any consideration is appreciated.
jerry
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trop-a-cal

Palm Coast Fl

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Joined: 09/24/2007

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The Chevy chassis has had problems with the auto park systems. Prior to Vortec the carborated and non overdrive units had overheating problems causing exhauxt manifolds to heat and shut down engine. The Vortec did away with that with the multiport FI and the dual exhaust manifolds and two catalytic converters then the Y pipe. I owned the non-vortec then went to the 1997 Vortec, and OD transmission, and it was and still is much better MPG's and power(290 HP). They both also had composite brake caliper pistons, that had to be replaced with steel piston calipers. The P32 had a better front suspension, having a transverse leaf spring in additon to the coil springs that have air bags, for leveling. The bell cranks in the non vortec units were weak, and caused sloppy steering. The hoses and belts and fluids, if not replaced for origionals should be done, as would a transmission flush/either with or without dropping pan, if the unit has an easy access at the transmission cooler in front of the radiator, which I think both had but for sure the Vortec has. Of course tires are needed if they are over 5 years old or worn/or cracked. The rest of the components of non chassis are subject to inspection, as is the rubber roof which can cost up to $8,000 to replace if the sub deck is shot, due to long term leaks. You could easily put $5,000 into one of these if you don't do a through inspection prior to buying, just to make it roadworthy.
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Big Katuna

Deland, FL

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My general advice would be to get a 2000 and up chassis if at all possible. Both Ford and GM chassis got much better after that. Wider track, better suspension, better brakes, more power, better mileage, better trans, etc.
If you HAVE to go earlier, stay away from the Ford and its 16" tires and trouble prone brakes.
My Kharma ran over my Dogma.
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okgc

southern Michigan

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Joined: 09/25/2006

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Pick the one with the floor plan you like the best. Great bang for the buck.
Be sure to check the age of the tires. The Bounder and Southwind are almost the same quality with Flair a lower price unit. I dont know much about a Coronado.
Fleetwood Bounder 34J Chevy powered
Chevy HHR toad
Silverado 2500 4x4
Sundowner horse trailer
My hobby cars
1965 Chevy Impala SS 396
1964 Chevy Nova SS
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topflite51

In The Desert of Nevada

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Joined: 05/13/2004

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Big Katuna wrote: My general advice would be to get a 2000 and up chassis if at all possible. Both Ford and GM chassis got much better after that. Wider track, better suspension, better brakes, more power, better mileage, better trans, etc.
If you HAVE to go earlier, stay away from the Ford and its 16" tires and trouble prone brakes. You have mentioned Ford and its trouble prone brakes before.....Recall info? Service bulletins? Anything? Sure would like to read all about it.
What GM chassis in a Class A after 2000?
If you are going to stay away from something avoid Workhorse models W20-W22. Lots of info on their bad brakes and recall info. Just do a search on this forum.
David
Just rolling along enjoying life
w/F53 Southwind towing 87 Samurai looking to golf or fish
Simply Despicable
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bob b

Grants Pass, Or

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Joined: 01/03/2004

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Look for bubbles in the siding. It's called delamination and fairly common in the ninetys. It's a deal breaker as it can cost $10K per side to fix. Bob
bob b
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topflite51

In The Desert of Nevada

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Do as Tropical and bob b suggests and do a very serious and thorough inspection of roofs and sides. Rubber roofs and delamination in siding can be expensive.
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mike brez

milford ct

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Joined: 09/27/2002

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topflite51 wrote: Big Katuna wrote: My general advice would be to get a 2000 and up chassis if at all possible. Both Ford and GM chassis got much better after that. Wider track, better suspension, better brakes, more power, better mileage, better trans, etc.
If you HAVE to go earlier, stay away from the Ford and its 16" tires and trouble prone brakes. What GM chassis in a Class A after 2000?
.
It was still a P chassis after 2000. Actually the last model year for a P was 2005 and was replaced by the W16 and W18. I think in 2000 they went to a wide trac front end instead of having the front tires about 4ft apart like my P30.
1994 Pace Arrow 33L Class A 454 P30 2002 F250 lariet crewcab 4x4 7.3 PSD srw short bed auto 3.73 gears,reese 16k slide hitch,reese brake controller ford factory aic,autometer three guage pod trany temp,pyrometer,turbo boost,banks 4inch monster exhaust,aFe air box,sonnax valve and tri springs,magnafine trans filter,Wicked Wheel,TS flip chip 75/100/125/OMG,03 tt heated/signal mirrors,runningboard leds.Other than that its all stock
2oo4 ground up ridgid chopper 120rwhp
http://community.webshots.com/user/oneHD
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BobR

Aurora, Illinois

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Joined: 12/07/2001

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In the age range you're looking at, I would concentrate on finding a very well cared for unit. The Chevy versus Ford debate takes a back seat to finding an exceptional motorhome.
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peaches&cream

Northwest Georgia

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Joined: 06/18/2007

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Do as they all suggest, instead of spending $10,000 to $15,000 spend $20,000 to $30,000. You will feel much better.
1995 Holiday Rambler , F53, 460, Banks Exhaust & Trans Command
Toad 1995 Miata
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