sailusvi
Texas Hill Country
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WEIGHTS
GVWR (lbs.) 14,500 14,500 14,500
GCWR (lbs.) 20,000 20,000 20,000
CW (lbs.) 12,182 12,670 12,555
The above info is taken off the Coachman website for a "Leprechaun 32DS"
I am looking at used 2010 model and trying to figure out how much "stuff" I can carry. I had a 32 ft Jayco back in 2001 and it only had about 700 lbs of CCC...I will never make that mistake again(I hope)
Thanks
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wantsalife
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The CW is Curb Weight. That is how much the motorhome physically weighs. The GVWR is the maximun the motorhome is rated to weigh. 14,500 - 12,555 = 1,945. Your CCC (Cargo Carrying Capacity) is 1,945 lbs for a "Leprechaun 320DS".
The GCWR is Gross Combined Weight Rating. That is how much the rig is allowed to weigh when towing a car behind it... that means the motorhome and car together total weight. If your motorhome's GCWR is 20,000 lbs and it weighs 14,500 lbs that means you can pull a car that weighs 4,500 lbs.
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sailusvi
Texas Hill Country
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Perfect! it is now clear, Thank you.
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Rick Jay
Greater Springfield area, MA
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sailusvi,
You actually asked two slightly different things.
First, you asked for the determination of the ccc, which was given.
Then you mentioned "trying to figure out how much "stuff" I can carry."
Well...that's a bit different. How much stuff you can carry is limited by the lower of either: a.) the ccc number (based on the GVWR) OR b.) the GAWR (gross axle weight ratings) of the rig.
For example (and just making up numbers 'cause we don't know the actual ones), of that 1945 lbs. of ccc, if only 500 lbs. of it can be carried on the rear axle without exceeding it's GAWR, then you're going to have a hard time loading up 1945 lbs. if you have to carry the other 1445 lbs. on your front axle. Maybe an extreme example, but hopefully you get the idea.
The only way to really know is to take the rig out and get it weighed. Then you'll have some idea as to how the weight is distributed and how much of that advertised ccc is really usable.
Good Luck,
~Rick
2005 Georgie Boy 3625 DS on a Workhorse W-22 (Class A)
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sailusvi
Texas Hill Country
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Thank you Rick, it seems as though I am seeing the same problems I had a few years back (with regard to cargo,people and stuff)...I think it's time to move up to the bigger chassis.
I have always felt the bigger (30ft to 32ft) class C's are just too darn heavy for the E350 and E450 chassis. I am a car guy and own quite a few cars,bikes,boats and jet skis. I have been a gear head for 35 years...not that it means anything.
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ron.dittmer
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The longer class-Cs (30 feet and beyond) get very close to GVWR, whether on the E450 or the Chevy. Adding slide-outs increase suspision. The same goes for the E350, built 26' long and beyond.
Doing your homework regardless of length is very smart.
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Westronics
Redmond, WA
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Due to a large number of variable, the only way to know your true available weight of "stuff" is to weigh the vehicle.
Nothing else will tell you the real numbers.
My suggestion is that, if at all possible, you get a four-corners weight before finalizing any purchase. This way you can be sure how much you can load her up while staying within all weight specifications.
While you are at it, keep in mind that, for an E-450, at least 32% of the GVW should be on the front axle for proper handling. Some long rigs with lots of rear overhang can off-load the front axle excessively - especially when loaded up.
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tatest
Oklahoma
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CCC is actually GVWR less vehicle weight, weight of full tanks, and a "normal complement" of passengers. What's left is for your stuff.
NCC is a new definition imposed by DOT, it is GVWR less vehicle weight and full tanks. It is what's left for your stuff and the people you will actually carry.
GVWR - UVW from a weight sticker is close to neither of these, as it doesn't account for 300 to 800 pounds of water and propane you might be carrying. GVWR -UVW from a brochure (especially Coachmen) is even worse, because the UVW listed does include the weight of any equipment listed as optional in the brochure. The motorhomes typically produced (with equipment like generator, air conditioner, microwave, TV, etc) are often several hundred pounds heavier than the brochure UVW.
Some RV manufacturers list the installed weight for each piece of optional equipment in the options list (the way it is done for an aircraft type certificate), to help you figure it out. But the second best way to find out is to go look at the weight sticker for the particular RV. The best way is to have it weighed, in the condition you will use it.
Tom Test
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Rick Jay
Greater Springfield area, MA
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tatest,
I agree with your post and especially agree with the recommendations to weigh the rig before committing to a purchase.
What I want to reiterate and emphasize is that many go solely by the ccc numbers OR the GVWR - vehicle weight number. The problem with both of those determinations is that they assume the load is perfectly balanced front to back and right to left so that full use of available axle capacity is utilized.
Since that is rarely the case, the rig needs to be weighed so that one knows how the weight is distributed at each "corner": front to back and right to left (if possible). Then you can have a pretty good idea just how much "axle capacity" is available for stuff.
In my opinion, those ccc numbers are near useless and just mislead folks into thinking they have tons of capacity, when that is often not the case.
sailusvi, be careful. Going to a larger chassis may not eliminate the problem. With the heavier chassis's come larger motorhomes, more slides and more doodads. You'll have to do your homework with just about anything you look at. I've seen test reports of some very expensive ($1 million neighborhood) have very little available ccc.
You CAN find a rig that will carry and do what you want, but it's up to you to find it...and the manufacturer's don't make it easy.
Good Luck,
~Rick
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