grey2112

Tampa

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Thanks, Skip - that's sort of what I was thinking. So, seeing as how I will more than like go with the C-rated tires, are there better trailer tires out there in the C-rated range that are 205/75-15 other than Maxxis?
Maybe the Goodyear Marathon?
* This post was
edited 11/07/09 08:26am by grey2112 *
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coolbreeze01

Redding, Ca

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Are your rims really only rated to 50#? You could try the now made in the USA again Goodyears. Wally probably has them. Good luck.
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JJBIRISH

Butler, PA, USA

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You have some real problems with your trailer as it was built, that you should have taken care of before you decide…
Your trailer has the wrong axles under it… the GVWR (7914) can not exceed the AWR plus the tongue weight (7680)… if the tongue weight is a range you use the lowest weight and that is the 680 pounds…
you need to actually weigh the trailer and stop relying on those published weights…
If the weights you are stating are correct you need to weigh each axle and should weigh each wheel separately as fully loaded for your longest trip… remember your fresh water and your batteries are considered cargo weight and not a part of your light weight…
Running a better quality tire is something we are should do, but running tires so close to their upper limit just isn’t smart if there are choices…
The difference between a LR C and a LR D tire is their ability to hold air pressure… it is in effect a better tire by design and is isn’t required to have the maximum air pressure in it to be a better tire…
It is the air pressure that carries the load… the tire is only a containment vessel… a better vessel (determined by it ability to hold air in a tire) is still better vessel even when it is not full or fully loaded…
quality of mfg is something else altogether and has proven to be a real problem with tires imported from China…
In answer to your question, yes you can run LR D tires on your rims…
The LR D tire even at 50 PSI is a better tire than the LR C you have…
You can run them up to the maximum pressure the rim is rated for…
That can normally be found on a sticker inside the rims valley, after removing the tire… if it can’t be found you can call the rims mfg… it will have a PIS rating higher than the 50 PSI of original mounted tire…
The weight rating of the rim remains the same regardless what tire and air pressure you use…
As marginal as you axles, wheels, and tires are, any improvement should be welcome especially for the few dollars difference in the two tires when you are changing them anyway……
* This post was
edited 11/07/09 09:48am by JJBIRISH *
Love my mass produced, entry level, built by Lazy American Workers, Hornet
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smkettner

Southern California

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I put 205 load D on my steel wheels rated 1820 and air them up to 65 psi.
About 2000 miles so far no problems. 
If you go over 50 psi I recommend high pressure valve stems. Or metal stems.
* This post was
edited 11/07/09 11:18am by smkettner *
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canoe on top

Denver, CO, US

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You should really weigh your trailer. Guessing that you only load 500lbs of gear is probably not accurate. I have loaded 500lbs of camping gear into a canoe. Most people figure, at least, 1000lbs as a general rule for gear over unloaded trailer weight. I think you might be surprised at how much your dishes,pot and pans, clothing, food and all the other stuff weighs. I'd be surprised if your loaded trailer doesn't weigh around 6500lbs. This is still well under your present tire and axle ratings.
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Chuck&Gail

In the Colorado Mountains

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Your choice, but IMO find out what wheels are rated for. Seems several posters a year talk about the wheels that let air out. Note if inflating a LR D to 65 psi on a LR C wheel, which gives an OVERLOAD OF THIRTY PERCENT, doesn't worry you, go ahead. Many posters have said they have done so. Note 5 out of 6 people playing Russian Roulette will also report no problems. Doesn't make it safe IMHO.
If LR D will support your actual measured fully loaded weight when inflated to 50 psi, no problem. But at 50 psi a LR C and a LR C have the same weight capacity if they are the same size. Since LR D costs more, personally I do not see the point.
Just my two cents, and worth that.
Chuck
Wonderful Wife
Lovely German Shepherd.
1999 Mercedes ML320 TV
2003 Wanderer 187TB Toybox (3620# UVW, 4800# loaded)
Not yet camped in Hawaii, 2 Canada Provinces, & 2 Territories.
I can't be lost because I don't care where this lovely road is going
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LarryJM

NoVa

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Midnightpumpkin wrote: Gray 2112,
I am guessing you have a Rockwood or Flagstaff trailer?
My Rockwood 8315SS has ratings similar to the ones you quoted. The actual weight on the axles on my trailer is 6640 pounds.
The ST205/75R15 load range C tires are loaded to 92% of thier capacity. That is not taking into account that the trailer has to be several hundred pounds heavier on the curb side where the stove, microwave, fridge etc are located.
I think you might be surprised at your assumption that because the stove/micro and fridge are all on one side there will be a lot of side to side delta. All three of these are on the same side on our current trailer and I worry about this very issue because I run 6800 to 6900 on my 7K combined GAWR with 205 C" rated 14" tires and my one side to side weighing showed the side to side wt. to be within 30lbs. I was surprised at that, but it was what it was.
I for one, upgraded to load range D tires on the original 5" rims and run the tires at 65psi.
If your trailer originally had load range C tires I just hope you confirmed that the rims were good for 65 psi and not the 50psi rating for C load range tires.
There was a recent thread on another forum which indicates that Maxxis is no longer producting an ST205/75R15 load range D tire. Also thier chart that indicates 50PSI for thier load range D tire has to be a typo.
At this time, I know of no non-Chinese ST205/75R15 tires that are available.
My recommendation would be to go to the 6" rims and ST225/75R15 load range D Marathon tire made in the USA.
Their will be another poster along soon who will tell you you don't need Load range D tires.
John U
Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
ALL TRAILER MODS>>ETERNABOND INSTALL>>RAINKAP INSTALL
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grey2112

Tampa

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So far the only thing I can find on the wheels/rims is "1870 lbs" and then followed by the letter "E" - no psi rating/sticker/etc.
I'm so darn confused - some people saying "Get the D-rated tires and run them on your current rims", others saying "Your C-rated tires and rims should be just fine" and others saying "ZOMG! Danger, danger Will Robinson - you will have a massive failure and your rig was unsafe from the factory."
As long as it is OK to mount the D-rated Maxxis tires on these rims, inflate to 50psi, and be safe, I'll go that route. Otherwise my options are just getting C-rated Maxxis tires and keep them at 50psi.
I guess I just find it hard to believe that the TT manufcaturer would put dangerous tires and rims on a vehicle that they could be held liable for in the event of damage.
* This post was
edited 11/07/09 07:06pm by grey2112 *
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mowermech

Billings, MT

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I don't want to add to your confusion, so I will put it this way:
IF that was MY trailer, I would put LT load range D tires on it, inflated to the PSI recommended by the trailer manufacturer. I would then load the trailer as it would normally be loaded, and check the tire tread for pattern. That is, I would check to see if the tread is fully engaging the ground. One way to do this is in an empty parking lot, make chalk marks across the tire tread, and drive a few feet. If the marks are erased on the edges of the tire but not the center, add a few PSI and try again. If the marks are erased in the center but not the edges, remove a few PSI and try again. When the marks are erased evenly all the way across the tread, you have achieved the CORRECT pressure for those tires at that load. Minor variations in load will not make much difference (let's say plus or minus 5 to 10 %, for a "ball-park guess").
That is what I would do if it were MY trailer. In fact, when my flatbed trailer needs tires, that is EXACTLY what I WILL do. The same goes for my horse trailer.
My truck went up one size, and up one load range when I first put new tires on it.
Same thing for the Tioga Class C, up one size, and up one load range.
Both the Tioga and the Dodge Ram 3500 have the original rims, with Load Range E tires mounted. Nothing has exploded yet. I was towing a 5er with the Dodge at a GCW (actual) of 21,180 pounds. The registered GVW of the Dodge is 14,000 lbs.
There are always scare stories. Sometimes they are even true. YOU have to decide if the risk is acceptable to you. Let's say five people out of a million have a scare story. That doesn't frighten me much.
CM1, USN (RET)
'94 Dodge 3500 4X2 CTD, 5 speed, 4.10 LS diff., Jacobs Rambrake, 274,000 Miles
'99 Monaco McKenzie 32' triple slide
'95 Tioga 29H Ford-based Class C
Daily driver: '08 Subaru Outback
Towed: '06 Jeep Rubicon Unlimited/Load Trail 16' flatbed
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DaCarmack

Murrieta ca

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JJBIRISH,
How is HpyKmpr1962 citing Goodyear out of content, if they published the info on the tires?
I mean its a PDF on there home page for the Marathon. 
"Do not exceed the maximum pressure for the wheel.
o If the maximum pressure for the wheel prohibits the increase of air pressure, then the
maximum speed must be restricted to 65 mph.
o The cold inflation pressure must not exceed 10 psi beyond the inflation specified for the
maximum load of the tire."
Now to me if your wheel can't take the extra PSI you can't go faster the 65MPH on the Goodyear, but if your wheel can take 10 extra PSI, then you good for 66-75MPH.
This is a big liability for Goodyear to put this out if it were not true.
DaCarmack
Rv'less for now 
2005 Honda TRX 400 ATV
1983 Honda 185s ATC
2004 Saturn Ion Redline (can you say sleeper)
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