Bucky Badger
Madison, WI
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Joined: 11/05/2007
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Someone nees a new camera
Fred & Jodie, dogs, Zoey & Bella
2007 Nissan Titan, 5.6L Big tow, Equli-z-er Hitch
2007 Forest River Salem 27RB LE
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Rallies/Gatherings
IL 
WI
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pasusan
PA
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Joined: 05/13/2009
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Bucky Badger wrote:Someone nees a new camera
Oh yeah?
Just a new brain - I accidentally linked to the thumbnails til I saw the blur. 
Fixed now...
Trip Pics
Susan & Ben ~
84 Bronco & 90 Award Classic 23 joined with a Hensley Cub
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sdavis622
Puyallup, WA
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Joined: 02/27/2009
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DavidP wrote:Lantley wrote:sonicsix wrote:sdavis622 wrote:Well, first I am no electrician! I saw this done on another forum, or by another member, can't recall. Basically I just figured it to be a hard mounted extension cord. Most electrical posts at campgrounds have breaker on the 20a plug so I figured that would cover it. Maybe I should add a GFCI... never thought about that! Thanks for the insight. Like I said I am no electrician, and this seemed simple enough.
I did this mod a while back, and I used 14 AWG wire. This outlet is used for a toaster oven, a griddle or a hair dryer. Always one at a time, so overloading the wire is not a worry. The cords on the appliances are much thinner than the 14 AWG wire I used to wire the outlet.
The issue has nothing to do with the cord on the appliance. The issue involves protection on the circuit. Sdavis22 installed 15 amp wire on a 20amp circuit. In the event of an overload the 20 amp breaker will not trip until 20 amps however the wire will begin to heat when the current exceeds its 15 amp rating. This heat has the potential to start a fire. 14 wire is designed to work on a 15 amp circuit not a 20 amp circuit. 12 wire is rated for a 20 amp circuit.
Keep in mind if your appliance has a short in its cord or anywhere else the circuit,the breaker is designed to trip. If the wire is not properly matched to the breaker the circuit may never trip. The wire will heat up just like it is part of the toaster. Only instead of toasting bread it may toast your RV. Using an underrated wire is just plain wrong and a potential hazard. All Romex wire is not created equal. They make different wire for different applications.
Sound advice and an easy fix.
Thanks to all of you for the advice... like I said not an electrician. So, based on everything you all have said... would it be easier to go through trailer and add an extra breaker and GFCI, or upgrade wire to 12awg and add GFCI.
Basically I considered this the same as running an extension cord from the post into the trailer which a lot of people have told me they've done. Instead, I ran 14awg extension cord through a hole wired directly to an outlet, then romex to another outlet in the bathroom. Bypassing the trailer all together. I thought 14awg to be sufficient, priced it by the foot with a plug to attach, but an employee at a big box store showed me a 14awg 50' extension cord that made it way cheaper, and the plugs were already attached... so I just assumed that would work. Good thing I have all of you to back me up!
*Shane & Jen 
*DD-Miley Nicole-Born 9/24/2009
*2 Dogs-Tank & Abbey
-2007 Ram 2500 Laramie QC SB 5.9l Cummins
-2006 Arctic Fox 25S
Trailer Mods! Trailer! Truck!
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welove2drive
Southwestern Illinois
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Joined: 10/15/2009
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Mic_bug wrote:welove2drive wrote:LarryJM wrote:welove2drive wrote:Hello everyone,
We are pretty new to the TT world as we have tent camped for over 20 years after getting out of pop up.(never going to do that again)
We did our first mod to the 2002 Flagstaff 23'. Had to have more room in the shower so we picked up a curved hotel shower rod which we cut down to fit and a support bracket for the center. The way our shower is at the rear corner of the trailer it has the curve of the roof in it so we took the shower rod to the side wall where it is flat. Real happy with the way it turned out although we have not used it yet. Here are a few pics of the finished product. Each end of the rod was pre bent. I used the bent end of the smaller tube to make the bend to go to the side wall and just cut the pipe to length and drilled a new hole for the mount. The support bracket was found in the curtain rod isle at Lowes. I drilled a hole where the two tubes went together and installed a SS #10 srew and nut and capped it with a rubber cap to act as a stop for the curtain rings. I tried to bend the tube with a conduit bender and all it did was kink, this was before I used the end already bent buy the manufacturer.
I hope you have fixed what appears to be some fairly serious leakage in the roof area in those pics from the wavy ceiling panels. That doesn't bode well down the road.
Larry
We had a few things to repair when we got the trailer. One of which was track down some leaks. Gotta love it. I am happy with the way the shower rod turned out and hope to try it out yet this year.
Dave
I'd agree...ceiling there is pretty wavey
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Well we got to try out our new shower rod this weekend. Man what an improvement. Had so much room in the shower I almost asked the DW to join me, (well maybe not that much more room), but well worth the time it took to do the mod. I would recemend this mod to anyone and everyone.
And thanks for the 2 positive replies and for noticing the obvious.
Happy camping everyone.
Dave
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Patrick45
Cape Cod Massachusetts
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Joined: 09/04/2006
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Good Sam RV Club
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this is a great site-I have just gone through all 86 pages..
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htwheelz67
orange county
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Joined: 11/16/2009
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mee too, this is great.
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