rx2tee
Mojave Desert
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Joined: 05/20/2002
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Back in 2002,my Wife and I bought a 1990 Prowler 25' Travel Trailer from the original owner (A Co-worker). We have since spent well over 150 nights in the rig and the longest trip was 3200 miles. We have enjoyed this RV knowing not to expect Airstream level fit and finish from a unit of this nature.
The entry door, however, has been somewhat of a challenge at times. The door did not fit the opening well and the upper corner on the latch side would drag against the frame. The situation could be improved using the stabilizer jacks so as to "tweek" the door frame for a better fit. The dead bolt was hard to extend fully unless you lifted the door.
Upon returning from a trip, I would occasionally spend a bit of time wondering how to fix the problem. The door frame didn't seem to fit the door.
While on a camping trip a few weeks ago the plastic window frame for the door broke. I secured the frame with duct tape for the remainder of the trip, but decided that the door should be removed, disassembled, and rebuilt.
Finding a replacement window frame online proved to be easy and the new parts (reasonably priced) arrived at the door in a few days. The following weekend the door was removed.
I pulled the window and locksets from the door and striped off the exterior skin. The door had actually grown in width due to the loosely nailed frame connections.
My door went back together with screws instead of nails and epoxy or gorilla glue for the metal frame to wood or skin bonds and titebond II bonding the wood to wood and the skin to wood or foam.
What a difference! The door now fits the frame and opens and closes like a well made car door. I should have done this 5 years ago.
* This post was
edited 06/18/07 07:13pm by rx2tee *
2002 4x4 f-250 LB 7.3 Powerstroke
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ScottnSherrie
Augusta, GA
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Joined: 08/02/2003
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Don't you love it when a fix is cheap and you end up with a better result than you started with.
The drivers door has a handle just like the entry door and never wanted to close right. I took the lock out too it apart. I found a couple of loose screws and a little corrosion. Some cleaning, a little grease and some lock-tite on the loose screws and now it works perfect. I wish I would have done that years ago.
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fla-gypsy
North Florida
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Joined: 04/19/2005
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Great story, gives us all encouragement to go out and fix stuff.
09 SuperDuty Crew Cab 6.8L/4.10 5sp auto Torqshift
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4aSong
Northwest Arizona
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Joined: 10/15/2003
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I was searching RV.Net on the entry door problem I am having with my 1995 Prowler and came across your post. On our recent outing I have had to lift the lower portion of the door to ensure it would line up and close properly as the door seems to sag and no longer is square. The molding around the door seems to be loose and the door skin separates from under the trim molding. I plan on removing the door and lay it on some saw horses and remove the molding around the door, window frame and the door skin to see what may be the cause but before I tackle this could RX2TEE or anyone who has tackled a similar problem expand on what they did to repair it.
Would be most appreciated before I remove the door, etc.
Thank you
Mike
Mike and Nancy 
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Jamesrpm
Oregon Coast
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Joined: 08/30/2003
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I also reframed our trailer door , used p.t. wood . Still using it for our hunting trailer , 15 years later.
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I plan on living forever , so far , so good
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4aSong
Northwest Arizona
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Joined: 10/15/2003
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Reframed the door and added angle brackets to inside corners to keep it true and replaced all the rusted screws with stainless steel screws for the trim around the door. Door never functioned better, no more forcing it to close a slight push and it latches into place. Boy I like it when a plan comes into place. 
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