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 > Made winterizing a one person job

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kampinguru

Ontario

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Posted: 11/03/09 09:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I use a small piece of hose and air fitting as well. Set the compressor to 20lbs and hook it up. Takes me about a gallon and a half to winterize and that includes a quart or so for the filter housing.


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Deen

Vancouver, WA

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Posted: 11/03/09 11:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It always has been in our DSDP's! They've had a suction tube off the pump to draw the antifreeze in to the water system. I just drain the water, drop the pickup tube in the antifreeze, turn the pump on and turn valves inside. I do have to watch the antifreeze and change bottles.

BTW: the latest MH magazine says the blowing out the lines is not a good method of winterizing since it doesn't remove all the water.

ShapeShifter

Buffalo, NY

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Posted: 11/03/09 11:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I went to the home store and got a brass fitting with male garden hose threads on one side, and female pipe threads on the other. Then a reducing bushing to go from the threads on the adapter to the threads on an air hose quick-connect fitting. So now I have a small brass adapter that screws into the city water inlet, and to which I can directly connect the air line quick-connect fitting from my compressor.

It looks pretty much like a brass version of the plastic air chuck fitting you can get from the camping stores. But there's no need to hold an air chuck in place, and no reduction in air flow from the air chuck or Schraeder valve.

Works well, is compact, and makes it a one person job. More expensive than the plastic jobber, but works better and still very affordable.


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dfb

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Posted: 11/04/09 09:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

nbounder wrote:

DFB - do you really need 4 gallons? My 53' Bounder only needs about 2 gallons. Are you trying to be on the safe side, or am I being stingy?
Since we use our 5ver in the winter time, all I need to do is redo the bypass at the water heater, close faucets, and hookup water... When done, I redo the bypass and then pump the anti freeze thru again... It just makes it simpler than to add more RV anti freeze...Lazy me...

dfb

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Posted: 11/04/09 09:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Deen wrote:

It always has been in our DSDP's! They've had a suction tube off the pump to draw the antifreeze in to the water system. I just drain the water, drop the pickup tube in the antifreeze, turn the pump on and turn valves inside. I do have to watch the antifreeze and change bottles.

BTW: the latest MH magazine says the blowing out the lines is not a good method of winterizing since it doesn't remove all the water.
All the water does not need to be removed, open all the faucets so when the water freezes, it has some room to expand and not break the waterlines...

gkainz

Arvada, CO, USA

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Posted: 11/05/09 08:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Since I'm a belt and suspenders kind of guy, I use a brass threaded fitting with an air chuck in the city inlet. Compressor regulator set to 20 psi, connect the air hose and open the faucets. Then I pump antifreeze thru the system, and takes less than 2 gallons. I like this since I get very little water in the mix, and bright pink antifreeze out of the faucets quickly.


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22%Over

Denver, CO

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Posted: 11/05/09 11:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I agree that blowing the lines out and calling it good, is NOT the best way. Lots do it and leave it at that, but it is pretty cheap insurance to suck a couple of gallons of the pink stuff through the lines, ptraps, toilet etc. If you end up with a low spot in your water line and there is water in it, you will be having the fun job of finding the break come spring. You want as much of the water out as possible by blowing the lines, then followup with the pink stuff to avoid broken lines. The entire reason for using the pink stuff is that it will go mushy and not freeze (like a slurpee) and will expand where water will freeze hard and expand at the expense of your pipe. I do mine how Gkainz does except air is regulated to 40psi and works great.

Does a 53' bounder have a tag axle or two.

Gene&Ginny

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Posted: 11/05/09 09:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

b_salgado wrote:

I have a brass winterization valve. It looks just like a tire stem. I also have a locking tire chuck. It has, and always will be a one person job for me! If I remember correctly, I purchased the valve from a local RV shop for about $8. It is a Camco item, maybe you could find it in a catalog.


RV blowout plug, looks like this:


and a lock on air chuck .. add a quick connect for your air hose (not shown here)


I just found out there is an "All in one" unit:



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b_salgado

Salisbury ,NC,USA

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Posted: 11/06/09 06:01am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gene&Ginny wrote:

b_salgado wrote:

I have a brass winterization valve. It looks just like a tire stem. I also have a locking tire chuck. It has, and always will be a one person job for me! If I remember correctly, I purchased the valve from a local RV shop for about $8. It is a Camco item, maybe you could find it in a catalog.


RV blowout plug, looks like this:


and a lock on air chuck .. add a quick connect for your air hose (not shown here)


I just found out there is an "All in one" unit:
That's it.... I do like the all in one unit though. Where did you find that? I might go get one and give my brass one to a friend that has the plastic one.


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Gene&Ginny

North Kingstown, RI

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Posted: 11/06/09 12:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

b_salgado wrote:

That's it.... I do like the all in one unit though. Where did you find that? I might go get one and give my brass one to a friend that has the plastic one.

Don't know why I didn't post the link.
http://winterizemanufacturing.com/
$14.95 plus shipping - Winterize Manufacturing RV Blow Out Plugs are shipped USPS First Class Mail to all locations in the USA and Canada at a set rate of $2.75 USD per unit.

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