Vicki Lyn
Newport, NC
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Joined: 01/12/2003
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After full-timing for 3 years (and dragging a rarely-used-beyond-exercising generator around the country the whole time), I'm anxious to maximize the solar capabilities of the next rig I buy. I know I don't speak for everyone, but personally I can't see burning gasoline and annoying my neighbors with noise just so I can watch television or cook a quick meal. I've used solar panels for horse paddock fencing on my farm in upstate, cloudy NY, and I loved it - no fumes, no continuous cost, no hassle..."free" energy!
I'm considering the purchase of a 36 ft Allegro Bay, to which I want to add 3 or 4 75W solar panels, a 1500W inverter/charger (capable of running TV & coffee pot & microwave, tho' not at the same time) and controller. My main question is, "who should I have do the hooking up of the system? Tiffin Motorhomes? A solar specialist? Camping World?" Any and all comments would be MOST appreciated!
Vicki Lyn
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magicbus
LBI, NJ
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Joined: 06/16/2002
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Hooking up solar is really a simple job so I don't think a "specialist" is necessary. If you aren't going to tackle it yourself I would say CW or any competent RV shop could do it for you.
Dave
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PUSHTOY
Everywhere USA
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Joined: 01/01/2003
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DAVE is right on, solar is very EZ to hookup but if you are not sure enought use CW.
Get a 2000 watt inverter you wont be sorry and make sure you have enought battries for the job
GREG and LAUREN
2001 Endeavor 40FT. ISC 330
Dakota Quadcab 4x4 toad
FMCA 200924,GS Lifetime,CB.CH.13
Teamster Local 710 retired 
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wolfe10
Texas
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Joined: 10/08/2000
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You can really use input from several sources. The solar guy should determine the proper gauge and wiring diagram for the panels and controller and their connection to your battery bank(s).
They can also suggest possible mounting options for the panels.
Allegro can provide excellent information on where/how to mount the panels including selection of the mounting option that takes advantage of the structural members in the roof. They can also suggest the best wire routing between the panels, controller and batteries.
If you choose an independent installer such as CW, make sure the TECHNICIAN ACTUALLY DOING THE WORK has done this exact job before. You do not want to be a "learning experience" for a new tech.
In many cases, a knowledgeable owner who does a good job of doing their homework can do a better job because they are willing to take more time to insure a quality job. Because much of the wiring will be on the roof, I STRONGLY recommend using marine (pre-tinned) wire of the appropriate gauge for the amount of current and length of wire run. If in doubt about wire size, go with the larger gauge, as voltage drop across the wires can materially degraded your solar system' performance.
Brett Wolfe
1993 Foretravel 36' U-240
Cat 3116, Allison 3060
Caterpillar RV Engine Owner's Club: www.catrvclub.org
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Kajtek1
CA
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Joined: 12/04/2002
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Years ago, when I was taking my whole family to Sierra campsites in my 27’ motorhome – I pulled out 400lb genset, and gained perfectly good doghouse for my German Sheppard (she was messy sometimes inside motorhome).
That was one of the best improvements on RV, that I ever made.
I calculated solar panel cost and with my occasional vacations, when I never stay in 1 place longer, than 2-3 night, figure the best way is to buy extra battery for the inverter and if really low on power – run the engine with alternator (never had to do it anyway). The solar panels are greatly overrated. What is called 75W panel- even in California will give you approximately 400WHR per day. That with my present use would require about 200 years to recover the cost.
If I would have them – technically the easiest and best way is to have them stored inside, when driving and set them on portable rack with adjustable tilt, what will give max efficiency and simply plug it into any 12V outlet inside the house part, or use alligator clips.
Pessimist sees dark tunnel, optimist sees a light at the end, realist sees lights of coming train.Engineer sees 3 idiots on the tracks.
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dextery
Sioux Falls, SD Fulltimer
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Joined: 12/02/2002
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Go to www.rvsolarelectric.com
They have a publication Rvers guide to Solar Electric that can get you started.
I purchased my equipment from them and they recommended a solar specialist in the Phoenix area that did a good job for me. They mounted
the 2 75w panels, ran the cable down the refrigerator roof vent, cut hole on the wall of
the refrigerator and mounted the remote on/off switch to the inverter and also mounted the solar
charging controller, installed a shunt that allows
me to know exactly what each 110 appliance is pulling. They replaced my two shot t-105 batteries with two new bats plus added two more. I also have a battery charger wired in just in case I need to charge off the generator after 6 or 8 days of gloomy weather. I would not want to do the job...seeing where those rather large cables were snaked down through the body of the MH. And knowing which size cables to use is important so that the system you purchase will operate at optimun capacity.
If you can do it yourself, you can save about $400. But for me knowing it is done right is worth it.
Good Luck
*This Message was edited on 12-Jan-03 06:35 PM by dextery*
Dexter/Cherie
2004 40ft Dutch Star | Spartan Chassis | ISL 370 HP Cummins | Quad Slide
Our Current Location
FMCA F306636 SKP 75602
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John and Angela
Cold Lake Alberta Canada
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Joined: 12/23/2002
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Hi guys. Seriously consider doing the work yourself. Install the panels as per your dealers advice (based on type of roof). Run the wire down the fridge vent and connect via a suitable controller to the batterys. An afternoon at best. If you are trying to justify the cost quit now. If you are looking at the carefree side of things press on. All my panels are mounted flat on the roof, not the most efficient bit definetly care free. I wanted about 150 watts solar but instead of using tiltable panel holders I just doubled the panel capacity. Theoretically I have 325 watts or so on the roof but they are probably about as effective as half that on a tiltable turnable array. I run two fantastic fans in the hot okanagan weather in the summer, (one in and one out). This allows me to keep the inside temperature no hotter than the outside temp at any time. The two fans pull about 6 amps total. Our solar array EASILY accomplishes this with 4 or 5 amps to spare during the mid day sun.
Enjoy
2002 32V Southwind Double Slide
Workhorse W20 Chassis
97 Jeep Cherokee Toad
Added 325 Watts Solar, outdoor entertainment suite in cargo bay, Two "yard lights", 100 min gell battery reserve, 1750 watt inverter, power cord roll up, 300 watt baseboard backup heaters in holding tank and utility compartments, remote temp sensing in basement compartments. 40 watt backup lights (krypton replacement bulbs for 1186) Just Love to Tinker. Soon to be retired Canadian Air Force Technicians.
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wallynm
Los Alamos NM
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Joined: 09/27/2000
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Lots of good info already posted. I will add my standard solar file. Hope you find what you want and get it installed
GOOD LUCK
All opinions are my own and are subject to change based on new information. Having said that. The solar prep from Newmar is worthless and is unusable for any real installation. It consist of two 10 gauge wire that run from the middle of the roof to the AC electrical box on the opposite side of the coach from the battery box and one inline 30 amp fuse.
We also ordered the coach with a 2000 watt inverter and two extra 6-volt batteries for a total of 4-6 volt batteries.
I just purchased and had installed 2- 120 watt panels with a Heliotrope PV RV-30SE controller. I got two panel (1598.00), controller (229.00), easy access brackets (60.00) , 40’ 10 gauge wire (52.00) , RV-30 Shunt/wire kit (62.50) , and wall mounting bracket (29.00) as a package (2030.50) for $ 1410.00 including shipping. It all arrive via UPS 5 days after ordering. Under optimum conditions I understand I could generate 15 amps in full sun light directly overhead.
The controller has pulse width modulation, taper charge strategy, auto equalization or float, temperature compensation. I understand that essentially protects the batteries from over charge and provides for best battery maintenance. If I had it to so over again I would use a solar boost controller.
The shunt is necessary to protect the system for a catastrophic failure and allows the controller to monitor the using amps as well as the charging amps and battery voltage. I ordered solar prep for our Dutch Star at a cost of ~133.00 which ran from the roof to the AC electrical compartment not the battery compartment as stated by Newmar. In order to use that arrangement I would have had to put the controller in that compartment
I paid a RV place 303.00 to teach me how to install the items. I was quoted 253.00 ( I was to be a gopher) but felt I owed another 50.00 because I was under foot all day trying to learn how it was being installed. The panels were installed on two one inch bars mounted using L brackets so the panels do not touch the brite tec roof. The L brackets are mounted to the side wall rafter of the coach. The wiring is run down the refrigerator vent to the controller which is mounted in the cabinet above the microwave on the vent cover. The wiring then returns to the refrigerator compartment down into the furnace compartment, then across the rear wheel well into the inverter compartment and then into the battery compartment.. We were able to remove four screws and "fold up" the body panel to get access to the enclosed body cavity above the wheel well. The wire is not exposed to the out side elements except for on the roof. The shunt is mounted in the battery compartment. The temperature compensation and the shunt wiring all follow the path described above. It took about 5.5 or 6 hours to get every thing installed including running for parts a couple of times. I now think I could have installed the system myself but it would have taken me a lot longer.
We installed it in September 02 and have given a three month test. We have run on solar power for 4 days with out starting the generator. We normally run the TV and sat. box for the TV. We have used the microwave/convection oven for up to 15 minutes. In addition we run far to many lights most of the time. We have fan in the bedroom and even run it at times. I monitor the voltage in the batteries to make sure I do not run the down. Most of the time we run the inverter only when we need AC power.
I ordered from RV Solar Electric @ http://rvsolarelectric.com/ or phone 1-800-999-8520. I bought here because of a reference from a relative who is more experienced in solar stuff than I am. Also they are close to where I live ~400 miles away. And if I had real problems I wanted to be close enough to drive there with out much of a problem. Be aware that Shell as bought out Siemens.
I attended a seminar put on by these folks at the All American Rally at Pomona this summer.
http://amsolar.com/
This is another site on solar stuff.
www.backwoodssolar.com
Complete systems cost and warranty is about the same from all of them.
Got this site from another forum and it seems a little cheaper but I could not find a package system. You have to order the pieces separately.
http://www.solar-electric.com/
DONATE THAT OLD CELL PHONE TO SUPPORT SOLDIERS click here
Have a Cat Engine Yahoo Group or Cat RV Club Web Page
Have a Freightliner Yahoo Group or FCOC Web Page
2002 DSDP 3567 PUSHED BY KITTY KAT
THOSE THAT DO NOT KNOW HISTORY ARE DOOMED TO REPEAT IT
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Betty Boo
Tucson, Arizona & Tumwater, Washington
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Joined: 07/24/2002
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I too have been considering solar panels, an inverter with a multistaged charger and 4 batteries. But I've been wondering if the inverter w/battery charger would be enough. Run the geerator for an hour or two a couple of times a week to charge the batteries and call it good. Anyone tried this without the solar panels? Comments?
Betty
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John and Angela
Cold Lake Alberta Canada
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Joined: 12/23/2002
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Yes, but in my case it is more like once a day, (usually when my wife runs the hairdryer and then we make toast. 30 to 45 minutes max. I only have two trojan 105's as main bank and two gell 50's as switchable backup. Works well.
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