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(1) The nylon plug is removed from the original 6-gallon water heater to drain the tank. Opening the pressure-relief valve facilitates the draining process, which can be a messy affair. (2) Mounting screws are removed to release the original water-heater housing from the side wall of the RV. (3) A scraping tool and hammer make it easier to break the putty seal between the original water heater and the RV side wall. (4) The LP-gas line is disconnected from the original water heater. Notice the big blob of sealer, which is required to close the hole around the LP-gas line. This prevents gas from entering the RV but can be difficult to remove. (5) Hot- and cold-water lines are disconnected before removing the original water heater. In this case flexible hose and barbed fittings were used instead of PEX lines and screw-on fittings. It was easier to cut the hose rather than pry it off stubborn barbs. (6) Power wires are also cut before the original water heater can be removed from the RV.
(7) Once all hoses and wires are free, the water heater is pulled out. This was a relatively new water heater, so the sealer was still pretty gooey. (8) A scraping tool is used to remove old sealing material. The tool can easily scratch surrounding gelcoat, so go slow and use light pressure.
(15) For this particular installation, a brass elbow and barb fitting were needed to accommodate the existing hot-water hose routing. (16) An extension hose (reinforced) was used to hook up the cold-water line to a straight barb fitting. Fittings are not provided with the kit. (17) Once the AquaGo is securely in place, the LP-gas supply is opened and the connection at the new water heater is tested for leaks using a soapy water solution. (18) The cover assembly is screwed into the installation frame; fit is very good, so additional putty tape or sealer is not needed. (19) A rotating latch holds the water heater access door securely to the cover assembly.
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