10-Minute Tech: Wobble Stopper

Ratchet stabilizer illustration
Illustration by William Tipton


After reading James Baucom’s RV Clinic letter in the December 2013 issue regarding his wobbly trailer, I wanted to pass along my solution. I’ve told other RVers about my fix and have found that it removes 90 percent of the wobble, both front-to-back and sideways, and for a mere fraction of the cost of commercial products.

The materials needed are two 8-foot pieces of 2-by-4-inch lumber, two 12-foot ratchet straps and four 6-inch eyebolts. Park the trailer on a level surface. At the rear of the trailer, measure an approximate 45-degree angle from the top of the trailer frame to the ground surface. Cut a 2-by-4 to that length on 45-degree angles on both ends. Drill a hole through the 2-by-4 approximately 6 to 8 inches from the end that will rest on the ground, and place an eyebolt with the eye facing the inside of the trailer frame. Do the same to the opposite side of the trailer. Place the ratchet strap between the eyebolts and tighten as much as possible. The 2-by-4s, while being tightened, work against the frame and the ground and make two solid stabilizers. They also extend the stabilizing point of the trailer outside from the frame about 18 inches. I still use the scissor jacks. I do the same to the front of the trailer, and it’s amazing how solid my trailer is.

Jack Bell | High River, Alberta


  1. “Wobble Stopper” I just cant wait to try this one!!! I have been looking at different ideas for quite a while, and this looks to be easy and effective. I will, as in the info, use wood to start with, but if everything works, as I think it will, I will change to steel.

  2. Good idea. Just so you know…on the picture of the 2×4, the top angle is cut wrong. Top and bottom angles should be parallel.

  3. I may not completely understand (which is likely), but how would these work on an uneven pad with the RV leveled out? The 2x4s would not be the appropriate length to reach from frame to ground. Assuming it is not level front/back, then one set would be too short and the other end would be too long. Does this only work on perfectly level lots, or is there a way to work around that?

    • You can put blocking under the wooden stabilizers, just as you would under the scissor stabilizers to level them out.

  4. Built these for $20
    Works Awesome. You don’t always have to be on a level surface, its not a perfict world, deal with it. They still work at angles greater or less than 45°


Please enter your comment!
Please enter your name here